Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Rear Brake Job

  1. #1

    Rear Brake Job

    Well yesterday we got a bunch of snow here in Vermont, so it was a great day to work on the Wagon in the heated garage. It's been sitting in there since the fall as I didn't intend to drive it this winter until I was able to undercoat/protect the under side from the damage that road salt will do.

    After finally replacing the starter (I have been hunting and fighting intermittent starting issues for a few months) I can now finally get around to replacing both the rear wheel brake cylinders. But I figured, while I got the whole thing apart, I might as well clean it all up too.
    Hope you all enjoy the pictures, I'm about half way done, I plan to prime and paint most of the parts that I cleaned up. The difference between the clean and dirty backing plate bolts I think says it all. Pretty much everything metal has been getting it's turn on the wire wheel.

    I do have some questions, are there any things that I shouldn't paint? I know to leave the brake shoes alone (other than cleaning out those spider web egg sack things) but not so sure what else, especially when it comes to the axle parts.
    I cleaned up the outside of, what I think is called, the outer oil seal, but as seen in the pictures there is a bearing or washer inside. Do I dare mess with this? I am trying to clean up and protect anything that I come across, piece by piece as I get the Jeep up to standard. Also there are what are maybe shims? there is one that is definitely a 1/8 inch metal ring, but the others don't seem to be, are they gaskets? With the metal rim and oil seal on opposite sides of the backing plate? Seems to be a gasket on the back of the oil seal too, I would imagine I should replace these. Would it be 3 per side?

    Thanks again for putting up with all my questions, it is you guys on here that are keeping me on track.

    -VTWilly
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by VTWilly; 02-27-2022 at 12:22 AM.

  2. #2
    Few more shots of the road grime and crud that I have been dealing with and trying to clean up as I go.

    -VTWilly
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,228
    Try to keep as much of the old hardware as you can. It is a better grade of steel than much of today's, even if they are the same "grade".

    If you have access to a case tumbler (rifle/pistol cases) that uses stainless pins as a steel tumbling medium, it cleans things up very nicely!

  4. #4
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,107
    VT,

    As far as refinishing brake parts, a good rule of thumb is that if it is in contact with the outside environment, then paint as you please.
    I whole heartedly agree with LarrBeard on the reuse of the original hardware, that stuff is a lot tougher than anything you can buy on the market today. It's all made with real steel.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,681
    VT, the real seal outer is "unitized". It is a seal integrated into the seal cover. It looks like this:

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle...-dana-41-44-53

    Yours is cleaned up nicely but, no good. it is missing the seal.

    Here is a look at the parts you are working on.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...3-27-rear-axle

    There are shims that control the end play of the axle. The service manual does a great job of walking you through the set up of the bearings and the rebuilding of the wheel ends. I definitely recommend a copy of the manual to help you through.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bmorgil; 02-28-2022 at 08:57 AM.

  6. #6
    I see, well, I think I see. I did plan on keeping as much original as possible if it was able to be cleaned up, mostly because that is the cheaper option, haha,
    As far as the seal goes, isn't that the inside ring part in the picture below? I was skeptical about what it was and didn't want to take it out and risk damaging it at all.

    If that is not it, then I am kind of confused again.

    I have noticed that some of what I THOUGHT were gaskets are actually really thin metal spacers, so I will clean those up with a rag and a little degreaser and call that good. but I would like to knock the rust off the inside of that oil seal and repaint it.
    If that isn't the seal on there do I keep the metal part when I order the seal that you linked to? or is it part of that kit?

    Thanks for indulging my ignorance when it comes to some of this stuff

    VT
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,681
    Yes that is the outer seal in your hand, don't reuse it. It comes with all the pieces you need if you order the part from KW on the first link I sent prior. I think that is the one for your Wagon. Look on the other link in that post, you are working on Item 35. It comes with all you need, including a new cover. There is also an inner seal. The shims need to be set to the correct axle end play. You don't really know how many you will need till you check it. If you are careful and the shims are in good shape (don't mix them from side to side). Clean them up and reinstall them from where they came off. If you haven't changed any axle shafts and things other than the brake job, It will be close. New bearings need to be checked and reset. Tight is not good, a little is all it needs and too much causes other problems. If you haven't set the end play on this type of axle before, the manual is a must have.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,228
    "There is also an inner seal."

    That is Item 18 on the exploded parts list. I replaced the inner seals on the '48, but one was an old seal that failed after only about a hundred miles and I had to do it over. It isn't a big job or a lot of money to replace it, but there is a big mess if it leaks and gets differential blube in the brake drum and on the shoes. (I guess blube is a good way to describe it..)

  9. #9
    I think this is starting to make some sense, I apologize for making you explain the same thing to me more than once, sometimes my brain doesn't catch up as fast as it used to.
    I am going to order new outer seal, as you posted. I don't know if I will mess with the inner seal as I haven't really disassembled that far, I have only taken off the backing plate and will clean up the other shims/bearing retainer. I will take a better look tomorrow when I have some time, but I was thinking I would just wipe off some of the crud that had gotten into the grease, re-assemble and give the zerk a few squirts.
    As I said before this is really just a brake cylinder replacement, but since I have it apart, I figured to do what I could at the time.

    Thanks again to you all for both your patience and your great knowledge.

    VTWilly

  10. #10
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,681
    All good VT! always a good idea to replace any seal you disrupt. There is a tiny bleed hole for the grease to purge out of on the top of the axle tube right behind the flange the backing plate bolts to. Make sure that is clean and clear. Poke a small thin wire or paper clip through the hole. When you grease the bearing you want to see clean grease come out of that hole. Its not a problem to ask until you are sure you have the info you need. We don't mind VT, we have all been there!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •