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Thread: Wulfies nostalgia project

  1. #121
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    A different view ...

    That is a good plan. 'Way back in about '65 or '66, I had to replace the worm on the '48 truck. I took a station wagon worm and had it welded to the truck tube. It lasted until we tore it down for the restoration.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-17-2022 at 09:04 AM.

  2. #122
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Cutting and welding steering shafts is not a good idea guy's. The worm gear to shaft interface is critical.The two pieces are machined to fit together and then welded as a unit. Much stronger than a chop and circle weld.

    I wont argue that people have done it. When it breaks the guy who welded it is going to feel real bad. And eventually it will break right where it was cut and welded. A hard hit on a pothole and you are out of control. There is no way to safely cut and circle weld a steering shaft. No good engineer would ever say it is OK. The changes welding makes to the design and the metal of the shaft itself, will cause enough trouble on its own. There is little difference in the way the steering shaft performs, and an axle shaft at the wheel. You wouldn't chop an axle and circle weld it unless you liked being stranded!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-17-2022 at 09:37 AM.

  3. #123
    Yea well im gonna use it just for moving the frame around , plan to use new tube when it comes. Tnx LarrBeard and bmorgil . Machine shops around here hard to come by ,and the ones I have found really dont want to give u time of day. The ones around here are way behind ,the one that has my engine said 3 months its been over 4 . Tried old shaft for temp but it was really grindy.

  4. #124
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    Good machine shops are hard to find here too. If you do find one they are months behind and projects for the little guys go to the bottom of the list every time a bigger customer walks in the door. Actually, that’s true of nearly every business in this area.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  5. #125
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Do you have a regular Tool and Die Machine shop, not an engine machine shop near you? There is a place I have worked with in Tulsa. B T Machine in Oklahoma. 16210 Marshall St, Tulsa, OK 74116 Phone: (918) 834-3340. They are very close to Tulsa Raceway Park. Look for a tool and die shop, not an engine shop. B.T. will do it for you, just bring it in. I don't know if you are close to Tulsa however.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-18-2022 at 05:17 PM.

  6. #126
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I agree with Bmorgil on the steering shaft welding. I have done sketchy repairs myself, but without the proper prep and weld penetration, you'll be asking for trouble. I'm glad that you are going to use a new shaft for your final assembly, and your repair for moving the frame around the shop. It is not a good feeling when the steering wheel is no longer connected to the front end while driving.

  7. #127
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    Thanks for the tip. Tulsa is about an hour and a half away for me.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  8. #128
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Yessir ...

  9. #129
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Wulfie, are you anywhere near Corpus Christi? I know of a small one person machine and tool shop there, that will do it for you I am sure. Give Ed a call @ Roy's Machine and Fabrication (361) 884-8012. He is at 12 16th St Corpus Christi, TX 78405. He is 10 minutes from the South Texas Racing Ranch. Ed took the shop over from his Father Roy. He will do it for you. His shop isn't the best looking place but, he is a competent machinist, and reaming or precision boring isn't a big deal on a Ross steering box. I think he could do it for less than $100 while you wait if you ask him in the morning. If you use him, let me know how Ed is doing! When you figure a good reamer is going to cost you $75, Ed might just be the way to go. Bring him the shaft and the housing with the new bushings pressed in. That gives him options on how to fit it. He could set up a boring bar and bore it, which might be a better way for a machine shop that is capable of a precision bore. He may prefer to bore it. He will let you know.

    One thing to watch out for. Many complaints about the bushings out there for the Ross box. I have read in some Jeep and tractor forums, that the press fit is not there in the housing. The bushings must press firmly into the housing. After the bushings are firmly pressed into the housing, they should collapse from the pressure of the fit slightly. This is why they must be reamed or fitted after they are pressed in. If the bushings go in by hand, and the sector shaft will go right in after you press them up, stop. The bushings O.D. are undersized. I went through four bushings till I got two that pressed in nicely. I have heard of others having the same problem. Keep sending them back if they don't fit right.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-18-2022 at 05:34 PM.

  10. #130

    Looking like a jeep

    Had one to press in the long one , but short one not so tight so I red lock tight it in . Sector shaft was very tight fit if not fit at all , so I lapped it in got it where it was free . I am close to corpus 1 hour away thats where my engine is , not at the shop you talking about. Well got it looking like a jeep almost , sit body on frame . I bought body mount kit from KaiserWillys but the pads seem to thick , havent tried them yet . My jeep came without any pads of any sort at all . Hat channels sitting on the frame what was left of them . Any suggestions about fitting MD Waun body . Bmorgil where you located ? Oh i see Ohio .
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    Last edited by Wulfie; 08-19-2022 at 07:30 AM.

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