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Thread: Wulfies nostalgia project

  1. #131
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Wulfie, you should remove the one that is loose and send it back. You need the bushings to "collapse" inward from the press fit. It needs to be tight so the reamer can cut it to a precision fit. Even with red Loctite that is only part of it. It needs to stay in and not turn in the housing. A good solid press fit. The sector shaft is a precision fit. That is why the bushings must be reamed to size after pressing. It makes for a very precise fit. Something you need in a steering sector shaft or it will wear out very quickly, and take the housing with it. The machine shop I recommended is not an engine machine shop. Ray's is a tool and die fabrication shop. If you have a shop like this close by, take it there. I would not lap the bushings. You need a precision reamed, perfectly round hole. Something you cannot get by lapping. It must be round or it will wear very quickly on the high spots. There is a lot of friction on the sector shaft. It needs to be a perfect fit. Perfectly round is more important than anything. You can only get perfectly round by reaming or precision boring.

    I posted in my restoration thread on peej, everything I ran into on the tub. The biggest trouble on mine was at the firewall behind the throttle bracket. There wasn't enough room there. The firewall had to be modified so the body would move far enough forward with out hitting.

    I live about 20 minutes from the Original Willys Overland, Jeep plant.

  2. #132
    The ross housing Im using is not the one Im gonna use. When I get the new steering worm shaft I will get it right . The one I did is just for moving it around. Ill check out your problems with body mounting.

  3. #133
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Wulfie, you really need to tell me ahead of time that you were just doing temporary repair, not for the final fix! You are scaring the hell out of me!

    The project is moving along well Wulfie!

  4. #134
    Seems like your major problem with body fitting is the firewall to close to engine. I have a F 134 engine seized of course but was wondering if i can put in f 134 to se if everything fits up ok . From what i have read the f134 was same block deminsion wise . What do u think ? My L 134 still at machine shop.

  5. #135
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    This is interesting Wulfie... If your tub was like mine, the problem is the Bracket that bolts to the back of the block on the L134. I am not sure how the throttle works on the F134. We need LarrBeard to help here. He is very familiar with the throttle hook up, when converting from the L head to the F head. It is possible with the F head it might not be an issue. The linkage bracket on mine needed a good 2 inches of firewall modification. The tub would hit before it was all the way forward.

  6. #136
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The F head sits higher than the L head, so take that in consideration for the tub having enough room to slide forward. The F head sits up another 2 1/2" above what an L head where to stick up. On a stock tub, there is enough space above the head of either engine, but if the firewall is off on the re-pop tub, that may cause you modifications that are not needed.

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