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Thread: Wulfies nostalgia project

  1. #131
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Wulfie, you should remove the one that is loose and send it back. You need the bushings to "collapse" inward from the press fit. It needs to be tight so the reamer can cut it to a precision fit. Even with red Loctite that is only part of it. It needs to stay in and not turn in the housing. A good solid press fit. The sector shaft is a precision fit. That is why the bushings must be reamed to size after pressing. It makes for a very precise fit. Something you need in a steering sector shaft or it will wear out very quickly, and take the housing with it. The machine shop I recommended is not an engine machine shop. Ray's is a tool and die fabrication shop. If you have a shop like this close by, take it there. I would not lap the bushings. You need a precision reamed, perfectly round hole. Something you cannot get by lapping. It must be round or it will wear very quickly on the high spots. There is a lot of friction on the sector shaft. It needs to be a perfect fit. Perfectly round is more important than anything. You can only get perfectly round by reaming or precision boring.

    I posted in my restoration thread on peej, everything I ran into on the tub. The biggest trouble on mine was at the firewall behind the throttle bracket. There wasn't enough room there. The firewall had to be modified so the body would move far enough forward with out hitting.

    I live about 20 minutes from the Original Willys Overland, Jeep plant.

  2. #132
    The ross housing Im using is not the one Im gonna use. When I get the new steering worm shaft I will get it right . The one I did is just for moving it around. Ill check out your problems with body mounting.

  3. #133
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Wulfie, you really need to tell me ahead of time that you were just doing temporary repair, not for the final fix! You are scaring the hell out of me!

    The project is moving along well Wulfie!

  4. #134
    Seems like your major problem with body fitting is the firewall to close to engine. I have a F 134 engine seized of course but was wondering if i can put in f 134 to se if everything fits up ok . From what i have read the f134 was same block deminsion wise . What do u think ? My L 134 still at machine shop.

  5. #135
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    This is interesting Wulfie... If your tub was like mine, the problem is the Bracket that bolts to the back of the block on the L134. I am not sure how the throttle works on the F134. We need LarrBeard to help here. He is very familiar with the throttle hook up, when converting from the L head to the F head. It is possible with the F head it might not be an issue. The linkage bracket on mine needed a good 2 inches of firewall modification. The tub would hit before it was all the way forward.

  6. #136
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The F head sits higher than the L head, so take that in consideration for the tub having enough room to slide forward. The F head sits up another 2 1/2" above what an L head where to stick up. On a stock tub, there is enough space above the head of either engine, but if the firewall is off on the re-pop tub, that may cause you modifications that are not needed.

  7. #137

    It fits !

    Things seem to be fitting up nicely , was kinda concerned after hearing other peoples experience with MD Juan bodies , but so far everything is fitting up pretty good . Bmorgil looks like even the throttle linkage may not be a major issue , all that has to be done is relieve the firewall back some. Everything is a loose fit right now , the mounting kit from Kiser Willys is worthless so far ,had to cut some tire side wall for pads under the hat channels , other wise body would sit to high. Got about a 1/4 inch pad under parts of the body . Should I get the clutch and brake and steering tube to line up and not worry about everything else ? I know I still have to contend with the engine and transmission and transfer case .
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  8. #138
    Not planning to put F 134 engine in it , just putting it in to check firewall clearence , by the way there are no holes in back of F 134 head or block to attach any linkage .

  9. #139
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    F-134 Throttle Stuff

    All of the throttle linkage for the F-134 is on the lower driver side of the engine.
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  10. #140
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Thanks Larry! There is the difference. The F head mounts the linkage to the side of the block where the L head has the linkage behind the block. That is where I had to clearance the Firewall for the bracket on the back of the block on the L head. You could get the L head bracket and fit it in behind the block in the approximate position. That will show what you need. I think the Juan tub has a few things that they (Juan) mixed up. The dash on my 3A worked but was a cross between a 2A and a 3A. It had to have a few things repaired. The starter switch/coil is in the dash on a 2A and the holes had to be fixed. I am convinced the firewall is modified from the 3B firewall, which explains why the relief is not there for the bracket. A little chopping here and welding there, a little Bondo and, it's a 3A!

    You are right on track Wulfie. The whole body project starts with the grill. Like you have it. That is exactly how they came down the assembly line. First the grill goes on then the fenders, and the tub fits up from there. Once the fenders are where they go, the tub has to be manipulated in whatever manner to get it to bolt to the fenders. The tub is then centered left to right on the frame and squared. The tub is usually not flat on the bottom. The shape of the tub is usually a bit twisted until you get it bolted and pulled down into shape on the frame to the 1/4 rubber spacers between the tub and the frame. The spacers need to provide enough clearance between the tub and the top of the transmission transfer case. The tub should not touch anything but the rubber pads. To align the clutch pedal and brake pedal to the holes in the floor, the shafts are forged. They can be bent slightly in a press and reinstalled if they don't come straight through the centers of the holes in the floor. This adjustment is common. If you get a new brake pedal or clutch pedal, there is a very good chance you will have to custom bend it just a little to get a perfect fit.

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