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Thread: Hello From Kansas!

  1. #11
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    You have to sit in it and make Jeep noises! A very important step in the restoration phase. Gets the imagination going.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    You have to sit in it and make Jeep noises! A very important step in the restoration phase. Gets the imagination going.
    I totally agree, ha!

  3. #13
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    I picked up another L134 over the weekend. Itís almost complete but missing con rods and pistons. I may try to throw parts at it to get it going while my MB block is out for machine work. Can anyone pint me toward a good engine book for the MB and or CJs??? Thanks is advance!
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  4. #14
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The best book I have read on the L134 and the F134 s the Universal Service Manual from KW. Everything you need to go completely through the motor is in there, in pretty simple language. The TM1804 Military Manual is also a good source. There is a link to it in the Tech Section. I will paste it below. Let your mind go wild with Google and you will find videos, books and opinions. There is a lot of little "tidbits" in the Tech Sections on this forum, stuff on compression, gaskets, assembly and lots of information. Use the search engine on the site if you are curious about a subject. Chances are someone has also had the same curiosity.

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...lity-Truck-M38

  5. #15
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    That looks like a great find... in what shape is the crank?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    The best book I have read on the L134 and the F134 s the Universal Service Manual from KW. Everything you need to go completely through the motor is in there, in pretty simple language. The TM1804 Military Manual is also a good source. There is a link to it in the Tech Section. I will paste it below. Let your mind go wild with Google and you will find videos, books and opinions. There is a lot of little "tidbits" in the Tech Sections on this forum, stuff on compression, gaskets, assembly and lots of information. Use the search engine on the site if you are curious about a subject. Chances are someone has also had the same curiosity.

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...lity-Truck-M38
    Hey thanks so much. I knew I’d get a good idea on starting points for my tech library!

    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    That looks like a great find... in what shape is the crank?
    Yes! A hot rod friend of mine contacted me recently and said he had pulled it out of his ‘49 wagon 7 or 8 years ago. He said it had popped the top off of one of the pistons. Doesn’t seem to have damaged the cylinder. Unfortunately he’s not sure what he did with those or the rods. The bores have light rust from condensation and peering through the jugs the crank looks really nice? The whole valve train is there and moves freely. I borrowed some telescoping gauges and measured the bores and they appear to be standard?! I’d really like to find some used (cheap) rods and throw some pistons in it!

  7. #17
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    For rods you should be able to find some on the WWW. I found one on eBay still in the box! The L and F 134 engine exists in many things industrial and vehicular. Just remember the rods are NOT all the same in the motor itself. You need 2 EVEN rods and 2 ODD rods. In other words if you can find 2 number one rods, and 2 number 2 rods, or 2 number 3 rods and 2 number 4 rods etc, your in business. Just be sure to get them all resized, new bolts and match them all to the same weight on the large end (Crank Journal) and the small end (Wrist Pin).
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-08-2022 at 09:07 AM.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    For rods you should be able to find some on the WWW. I found one on eBay still in the box! The L and F 134 engine exists in many things industrial and vehicular. Just remember the rods are NOT all the same in the motor itself. You need 2 EVEN rods and 2 ODD rods. In other words if you can find 2 number one rods, and 2 number 2 rods, or 2 number 3 rods and 2 number 4 rods etc, your in business. Just be sure to get them all resized, new bolts and match them all to the same weight on the large end (Crank Journal) and the small end (Wrist Pin).
    Ah! Such good info. I just discovered that odd rod thing last week looking at new rods in the KW catalogue. Had no idea the rods were different. I assume that is covered in one of the service manuals? I’ve got lots of reading to do,ha!

  9. #19
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The offset is different on the rods. The offsets position the rod in the middle of the piston. The engine will go together just fine with the rods in the wrong place. The small end of the rod will be positioned off to one side of the piston instead of the middle. This will increase the side load on the piston and heavily tax the rings. It usually will scuff the cylinder wall and/or break a ring after it runs for a while that way. I have taken one apart that ran with an even rod in number one cylinder. Eventually it broke the piston lands, the rings and grooved the bore.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-09-2022 at 07:10 AM.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    The offset is different on the rods. The offsets position the rod in the middle of the piston. The engine will go together just fine with the rods in the wrong place. The small end of the rod will be positioned off to one side of the piston instead of the middle. This will increase the side load on the piston and heavily tax the rings. It usually will scuff the cylinder wall and/or break a ring after it runs for a while that way. I have taken one apart that ran with an even rod in number one cylinder. Eventually it broke the piston lands, the rings and grooved the bore.
    So I’m assuming then that there are different part numbers? Is there a way to tell which one is for which position without part numbers?

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