The part numbers are different. 641774 for the odd rods and 641775 for the even. You usually buy them by the position however. A lot of people sell the used rods as a "number one" or a number two" rod etc. The rods are stamped 1, 2, 3, and 4. The sellers usually just note the rod number.
Last edited by bmorgil; 12-10-2022 at 10:11 AM.
Oh gotcha. My MB engine was apart (well the pistons/rods were out) when I got it. I did notice the rods were stamped but I just assumed whoever took it apart did that. Thanks again! Let me know when you get tired of my questions, ha!Originally Posted by bmorgil
Keep asking. For every question you ask, there are several people who think; "I'm sure glad he asked that - now I know the answer to ....???"
The questions create great learning experiences for us all Mike, not going to get tired of them!
The rod numbering subject is a good one. You mentioned you thought someone might have marked the rods when they disassembled it. Many times that is the case. Not all manufactures mark the rods after new assembly and, someone on the assembly line could easily forget. So it is quite possible the rods may not be marked. In that case it is important the person who disassembles them, marks them. In the case of the 134's I think it would be rare to find a used one without a mark.
Thanks fellas! Be careful what you wish for as I’ve lots of questions!
Well the Jeep gods shined down upon me again yesterday and I dragged some more crap home…my wife was thrilled, ha!
Anywho, take a peek at the pics and tell me what you think. Complete set of rods out of a stuck .040 ‘46 CJ2A.
That is a different number and I think all the rods have that number? Is that just a casting number?
I love the basket of parts! Some good stuff in there. The rod marking of "4" in your last photo is the number we are looking for. This would be the number 4 rod and an "even rod". It can be used in #2 cylinder or #4 cylinder, once the rods are "reconditioned". If it is used as a #2 rod it should be remarked as such. Once the rods are "run in" you should always try to get them back in the same spot if you disassemble it later on.
Your observation is correct on the number cast into the side of the rod. That is the casting number identifying the casting mold the rod came out of.
Yes! I got some good stuff! Basically a complete disassembled motor with a cracked block. But it’s all the stuff I was missing to put the one together that I got the weekend before!
Plus I didn’t have one single carb so that was a big factor in my purchase.
More good stuff Mike! Everything original you can find will save you money and trouble that's for sure.
This has been my experience with projects. You find a suitable build candidate, then before you know it, parts/parts donors come out of the woodwork. When I had an M38A1 that I started on, before I was done, I had two good donors, and a rolling chassis and body that was too good to cut up. Even on rare occasions, people come knocking at the door trying to wholesale you their projects.
Yes! I’m a big fan of original parts when they can be had!
I’ve already got grandiose dreams to build a “series 1 Land Rover” on a jeep chassis when I’m finished with this one, ha! It’s a sickness...
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