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Thread: Sleeves or 80 over

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Mar 2022
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    New York
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    Sleeves or 80 over

    Getting ready to rebuild the engine in the CJ2A....Its the numbers matching block, was told it already 60 over and so I looked into sleeving engine
    The shop I want to use told me 500 labor to sleeve the engine and do all machine work required
    He said he would sonic test the block but felt there is enough iron in these blocks to go 80 over, he is the second shop to tell me that
    Currently with a new radiator and 160 degree thermostat even in 90 plus degree days the jeep runs very cool

    Whats the general thoughts on this and thanks for advise

  2. #2
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Dec 2018
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    Northwestern Ohio
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    Steve, I had mine sonic tested and there was plenty there to go .080 over, and it is bored .080. How much does the shop want to sonic test it? I would have them do it if they don't want to much, its cheap insurance. I was worried about it also. Not all blocks are created equal but, back in those days everything had a substantial amount of "extra material". The biggest problem is the quality of that metal. As you cut into it you could uncover porosity or bad spots in the metal. Not very common but, something to watch for.

    There are many engines that don't do well at .080 over. I think the Go Devil engine for the most part isn't one of them. In the USA Silv-o-lite is the only manufacturer of the pistons for the Go Devil. They don't offer "off the shelf" .080 over pistons for all makes of engines. The ones they do are probably pretty capable of the overbore. Keep in mind the Go Devil is a Continental industrial engine at heart. The wall thickness required is directly related to the maximum cylinder pressure. This goes up as horsepower goes up. At 800 to 1000hp you need .250 to stay round and not split. At the 500hp level I wouldn't be comfortable under .160. At the whopping 60hp level of the Go Devil, its going to be even less.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-23-2022 at 11:55 AM.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
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    Mar 2022
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    New York
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    thanks for the advise. The plan was to remove the engine and do a rope rear main seal, but id have to check all bearings and of course the cylinders
    The previous owner told me originally when he got the jeep the engine was stuck and he replaced one piston
    The engine runs not bad, oil pressure hot at idle is 20psi, goes up when increasing RPM, she does not smoke under normal acceleration
    Engine does have a slight "tick" which im hoping is just a valve adjustment
    The thing is im suspect of any mechanical work said to be done on this Jeep in the past. Ive found things poorly done/repaired, and just downright dangerous in the case of a broken stud on the bell crank
    So its anyones guess when I tear into the engine
    The former owner me he had did the rear main seal, something about a seal from a 283 Chevy. But it leaks pretty bad so we will see what I find....Thanks again

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