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Thread: ***My 1944 GPW/1945 MB (Sympathetic) Restoration!***

  1. #41
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That's great news that the shop can pin the head to fix the crack. It isn't surprising that the carb parts can be dated to the war years on a '46. The very early civilian Jeeps, (VEC) had a lot of parts from the left-over war time stock. Even the early bodies still had the tool indents on the driver's side rocker panel. A fun fact about the VEC Jeeps, the majority were column shift transmissions, and the data plates were three-piece configuration, where the latter is a one piece.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 01-12-2023 at 03:49 AM.

  2. #42
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Classic screw driver Mike! Cracks between the head bolts and water passages are common. A lot of times it is because someone used a bolt instead of a stud. The bolts almost always have a shank on them that bottoms out before they come to full torque, cracking the casting.

  3. #43
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    That's great news that the shop can pin the head to fix the crack. It isn't surprising that the carb parts can be dated to the war years on a '46. The very early civilian Jeeps, (VEC) had a lot of parts from the left-over war time stock. Even the early bodies still had the tool indents on the driver's side rocker panel. A fun fact about the VEC Jeeps, the majority were column shift transmissions, and the data plates were three-piece configuration, where the latter is a one piece.
    Yes I have heard this! The distributor that came with that pile is the same as the military too but has a Dec ‘46 date code. Funny enough, the day after I secured the deal for this MB in Nebraska, an early column shift popped up on Marketplace about 20 miles from home… just my luck, ha!

    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Classic screw driver Mike! Cracks between the head bolts and water passages are common. A lot of times it is because someone used a bolt instead of a stud. The bolts almost always have a shank on them that bottoms out before they come to full torque, cracking the casting.
    Yes! The “perfect handle” screwdrivers are my faves! I have heard exactly that about the head stud holes!

    I spent a little more time picking at this one tonight. Cleanup and assess!
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  4. #44
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Got some new bits for the “overhaul” over the weekend. The cleanup continues!
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  5. #45
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Crap. I tried to outsmart the forum by turning my vertical pic sideways but that didn’t work either, ha!

  6. #46
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The continued saga of the right side up picture.

    Some mighty clean parts there Mike! Ya gotta love the "look at all the stuff" part.

  7. #47
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Great start to the overhaul process.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike P View Post
    Crap. I tried to outsmart the forum by turning my vertical pic sideways but that didn’t work either, ha!
    I tried rotating a picture before posting using editor on the phone one day. It took 5 tries rotating 90 degrees and saving before I got the picture to post in the desired orientation. I use my computer if I truly want to post hassle free pictures on any forum otherwise I just let them be sideways.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  9. #49
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    Still picking away at the engine but I got a box of parts from KW with a windshield to cowl seal in it so I wanted to try it out. The clamps are from eBay and the dash latches are original as near as I can tell.

    So, with the latches lowered completely I’m having trouble getting all to clamp down properly? Anyone have any pearls of wisdom? Are my eBay clamps incorrect?
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  10. #50
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    This is a common problem with the windshield to cowl latch alignment. The arms of the windshield tend to get bent or flex when the windshield is stored flat on the hood. This also happens if the windshield is stored off of the vehicle as well. The tubing that makes up the arms will deform if dropped or banged around when moving, or even if the windshield is stored on the mount arms in the corner of a storage shed. Our '46 didn't have a windshield frame when purchased back in the 80s, but through a series of horse trades, one was acquired. It took a bit of gentle heating in the radius of the arms to bring it back into alignment, to which after a few trailer rides, it's due to be tweaked again, because the latches are not quite in line again. If you do not want to apply heat to the windshield arms, you could apply tension with a ratchet strap and pull the windshield into alignment. In your case, the side-to-side alignment isn't far off at all. The new seal isn't quite as tall as the old dried out rubber seal that you are replacing, but it is close. The key thing would be to check the angle of the lay back of the windshield. I don't have the degrees of the angle that it should be, but over time it might have laid back lessening the angle that the windshield stands up. To fix that problem, again you can apply pressure forward with ratchet straps to pull the top of the windshield forward to roll the bottom forward to make the needed gap for your latch to work effectively. Just for a bit of useless knowledge, the later CJ3As and the remainder of the flat fenders went to a more durable square tubing arm configuration that hold up better to the life of a functioning Jeep. With that being said, the last picture is of an M38 with the square tube mount, but with poor storage of the previous owner, the windshield is severely out of square.
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