My first vehicle! 1956 CJ5

[56willys]

Yes 1/8" is the size. The purpose of the hole was to help let the air past a closed thermostat, preventing steam pockets.

Thank you! I'll get it pulled apart and drill it out.

[gmwillys]

The CJ5s had a rubber pad on the clutch and brake;

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...ts-55-67-cj-5/

The following diagram shows all the bushings for the clutch/brake linkage. It's pretty straight forward rebuild;

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/diagram...ol-55-71-cj-5/

[bmorgil]

I would tighten that clutch linkage up 56'. It will give you headaches in adjustment if the components are worn. Replace or repair anything that will cause you lost motion.

Like gm said, the rubber pads showed up on the pedals later. They were bare steel in the old ones.

[56willys]

I would tighten that clutch linkage up 56'. It will give you headaches in adjustment if the components are worn. Replace or repair anything that will cause you lost motion.

Like gm said, the rubber pads showed up on the pedals later. They were bare steel in the old ones.

I hadn't planned on spending the money right now, but I reckon it will be worth it. It was always annoying when I stomped on the brakes and feel the pedal move side to side. And now is the time to get things dialed. If it's worn out now it will only get worse.

[gmwillys]

Two possibilities for a run away pedal:

1) if the brake pedal moves side to side or rotates, you can fix that the low buck way. If the tightening the bolt for the pedal doesn't solve the issue, then you can pull the pedal out and weld up the notch in the pedal stem to take up any slop where the through bolt goes through. This will keep your pedal from running away from your foot.

2) the cross shaft for the clutch and brake is flopping on the bushings on the frame or the transmission side. If this was the case, then both pedals would wonder around.

[bmorgil]

On mine everything was worn out. I pretty much had to replace everything in the linkage. The worn out clutch linkage explained some of the damage I found in the transmission from grinding gears!

[56willys]

Both pedals are sloppy, mostly the brake. The clutch can be tightened with the bolt and be good. But the frame bracket is worn, the cross shaft has ⅛" grooves worn in it, and is as straight as a back road through the mountains! The brake pedal looks like an egg, also the clutch link rod is worn halfway through on the ends and is rusted enough that it stretches with pressure on the pedal.

[gmwillys]

It would be a wise investment to replace the worn items. When in doubt, change it out. Money spent now may save you a lot later on, especially if your brakes or clutch do not respond while driving down the road.

[56willys]

I got a bunch of stuff ordered for the pedals today. I even got pedal return springs, I've never had that luxury so I'm anxious to see how it feels.

Also, in the mail today was a fresh license plate and title, so Flossy is officially legal! And now since I have plates, there's a car show the 19th, next Sunday. It's about 15 miles away, and maybe, just maybe if I can get things back together it would be awesome to go to the show. I also had the crazy idea to get a uhaul trailer and go to the Spring willys reunion, but I don't think that will happen yet.

And then, since we had some beautiful spring weather, I decided to get the body masked and spray some primer. I have never used a air spray gun. But a little bit of thinned down rustoleum rusty metal primer. And it actually looks pretty good. The pictures make it look worse since it's half dry half wet. And if you stand 50 feet away and squint, it's great! But no, aside from a couple runs it looks good in person!

I also finished the rear bumber and got it primed. I welded a 3/16" plate from the frame to the bumber. And prepared to mount a pintle/ball hitch. It's an 8 ton rating, so hopefully it will be strong enough for a Willys!

[56willys]

So I noticed while Flossy was on jack stands the left rear tire and a decent clunk when I shook it. So I popped of the dust cover, which has the usual Flossy rust! And pulled out the cotter pin and what do I find? The nut on the hub is completely lose! Not finger tight, legit lose. So I unthread it by hand and pull the hub off. So everything looks okay, it was all covered in pretty good looking grease. The axle and hub looks nice, no weird wear marks. The keyway is nice, and the axle is tight against the bearings. So I'm thinking the problem was just the looseness of the nut. So my question is, what should I torque it too? Also someone has had it apart because it has fresh wheel studs, so maybe they didn't tighten it enough.

And on a side note, a dumb question. But what do you guys torque lug nuts to?