I was already planning on making my own body mount bushings, since the tubing i used in place of hat channels may not be the same thickness as original. But i'll probably reshape the tunnel alittle bit anyways just to be sure. I'd hate to get it painted and reassembled then find out the overdrive doesn't fit. And i have an ammo can i use as a center console so you can't see the tunnel at all, so it really doesn't matter if i had another hump in it.Originally Posted by bmorgil
Hockey pucks work pretty good unless you need taller mounts. Just drill a hole in the center, and there you go.
Like gm said, anything hard rubber will work. Depending on the thickness you need, cut pieces of conveyor belting also works extremely well. On my Jeep the mounts are the original thickness that came off, 1/2 inch thick.
The original bushings on flossy were ¼ inch. They must have changed from flat fenders?
Yesterday I installed a thermostat, there wasn't even one in it (not uncommon) maybe that's way it took forever to warmup on cold days. And I cut off the rear shock mounts. The shocks have absolutely zero pressure in them. I can slide it up and down with no force. I got new shocks and all new brackets, that should make it ride better. And I drilled out floor drains.
Pretty common bubba fix is to remove the thermostat. I owned a CJ5 years ago that didn’t have one when I bought it. It would get hot in traffic and on trails but cool down nice on the open road. It performed better and more stable after I installed one but I still ended up adding an electric fan for trail use.
Jeff
'51 CJ3A
'47 CJ2A
It's not a good idea to not run a thermostat at all. The water needs a resistor to slow it down when going through the radiator to get the heat transfer out of the water. If you do choose to remove a thermostat, cut the valve out of the center of the thermostat, and install the body of the thermostat to get your restriction. The small fans on the 134 really need a good fan shroud to be effective in traffic. Electric fans work well since they have an integrated shroud built into the assembly, so you don't lose suction through the radiator. Pusher fans are alright, but it reduces the surface area of your radiator by being blocked by the fan assembly.
I fought a cooling issue with the M38/3A Jeep that belonged to my father. It would sit there and idle all day at 185, but as soon as you would go for a drive, it would go along fine then spike to 210. The radiator had been flushed and pressure checked by a shop, but had been put on a shelf in the barn for a while. So when I dropped the coolant, the petcock kept getting plugged. Evidently, while the radiator was being stored, the necks were not covered with tape. There was a bunch of mud Dober mud that came out with the coolant when the hose was pulled.
The thickness of the body mounts varies a little bit. The original Jeep parts manual lists 3/16" as the #1 body hold down, 1/2" as the #2, 1/4" as the #3, and 1/8" as the #4,#5 and #6 liners. When you remove, repair and reinstall the body, it is going to need to be "re-fitted" to the frame. I wouldn't worry too much. Set it on the rubber so it doesn't touch anything but the rubber mounts you make. Mine are all the same thickness. Don't be concerned if it is not sitting flat. The body will "spring" when you remove it and do work on it. It will need to be pulled back into shape a bit when it cinches down to the frame.
BMorgil and I did some science project work on thermostats several years ago.
Back when most of our Jeeps were new, thermostats were rated at the temperature at which they were fully open. If you had a 160 or 180 degree 'stat, at that temperature it would be as far open as it was going to get. Many modern thermostats are rated at the temperature at which they start to open. As a result, in my F134, the temperature gauge would show a temperature overshoot (with a 160 degree unit it would run up to close to 185) until the thermostat fully opened and then it would swing back down to 160. You were never sure if it was going to open or if it was stuck. Stuck thermostats make one heck of a mess!
BMorgil suggested a "full flow" racing thermostat that had a small bypass hole in it to allow water flow even when it was cold. (I never can remember the vendor), but a "full flow" thermostat will be a good solution to keep Flossy cool without hot flashes. GMWillys suggestion to add a small hole is a good idea if you have to use a conventional unit.
Keep at it - you are doing the right things.
That thermostat is still hard to find. It is sold as a Milodon 16400. Expensive little beast. It is rated as full open at 160.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ilodon%2016400
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