Thank you for the feedback! I did change all the tie rods and ends. I checked the king pins when I first got the jeep. By just shaking the tire. They seemed to be tight. Just now when pulling the body I took out the steering column. And started inspecting the gearbox. Inside looks great, clean and tight. However the Pittman arm ball that goes into the draglink was more square then round. But I pulled on off my parts jeep and it is alot less worn. When I start putting things back together I'll inspect the bellcrank. And I know the quick alignment I did is not perfect. So I'll keep tinkering with it when its back on the road. Also when I did my alignment. I didn't do any toe-in. Because at that time I didn't know I was supposed to. So fine tuning that could help.
It looks like you are going through it pretty well 56'.
The King Pin Bearings are checked with a weight scale hooked to a spindle with nothing attached to them. There is a post on here somewhere about that. The service manual does a great job of stepping you through the process. You need to have a good preload on the bearings. Just shaking the wheel wont tell you if there is enough preload.
Thats great info. I had no idea there was that type of specific testing for king pins. I'll definitely inspect them better once things start going back together. I got it to run good, it stops, and has lights. Pretty soon will have floors. But it would be nice to go straight!! Thanks for the info. You are the master!
"Just ran across your start on the photo album. I like the description of the "Flossy Project"! A great name for her."
Thanks, i thought it would be something different. And i like things with historical meaning. A cool story i can tell people. I'll post more photos in the album once i get a chance.
Rust repair has officially commenced! Rear floor is out. And new rear valence is welded in. I got the lower panel at a swap meet, and the top piece is recycled bed frame.
Don't look to closely at my welds, although the're good enough that when I cut the floor it didnt collapse. It just won't win a beauty pageants lol.
It is looking like the "skin graph" is going well 56"! I wouldn't worry about the welds. They held and that's perfect. A nice looking weld is an art. It takes a lot of practice. I certainly am not any good at it.
Well, to wander a bit. The F-4U Corsair (the gull-winged fighter) had a window in the floor! Since it was a very tall tail dragger, the window let the pilot see the center line on the taxiway. But - as it turned out, the window didn't help all that mush. The pilot had to zig-zag the airplane so you could see to the left and right around that tall engine. On more than one occasion, Corsairs overran another aircraft and chopped off chunks of their fuselage.
56 you are not messing around, keep up the good work!!!
Like Bob said welding is a Art, what you’ve done looks Good and you don’t think it does slap a little mud on it when you’re finished
Thanks guys!! I'm not to concerned about welds/ appearance, as long as it doesn't fall apart on the trail that's my goal. I even said when i first went to look at it, "if I buy this my welding skills will surely improve!" When I get it done I'll have to post some pics of the first weld compared to the last weld!
Hey Larry, that is some really cool information you gave me. That was well worth wandering off topic for. It's always a great day when you learn something new!! Plus now I have another neat fact to tell people around the campfire! This is way I love this forum.
Looks good to me. Welding sheet metal is an art for sure, but is seldom pretty without the use of a TIG welder. The MIG requires you to gun and run on to another area to prevent from warping the panel, so you end up with tons of spot welds linked together. Stacking dimes isn't a thing when it comes to sheet metal unless you have a bunch of daily practice.
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