I got a new gas tank installed. Steel reproduction and new sending unit and cap. I also ran lines and an inline filter. I made the tank strap out of some stainless steel I got with the Jeep. Also just got brake parts in the mail so i'll be installing them later today. Thank you all for the kind comments.
Nice strap - that should hold it in place. You might want to put some sort of rubber at the edges where it wraps over just for abrasion resistance. Maybe a couple of pieces underneath as well.
Before you close up the work around the gas tank, take a hour or so to calibrate the sender to the gauge on the Jeep. Replacements are almost never "just right". Put a couple of gallons in the tank and bend the float arm until the gauge reads "E". That way you know that you have a couple of gallons left when the gauge says "E". There is telling where "F" will be, but when it gurgles and runs over - you know its' full.
I got the brakes assembled. Took longer than expected because i was sent flatfender shoes, but they got it sorted out and sent correct ones. All 4 wheels are completely done. Just need to work on lines. I got the complete kit fom summit. has; drums, shoes, return springs, shoe hold down hardware, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and hoses.
Found this new-to-me windshield. The old on was missing glass and the whole bottom was rusted out. Had about 1/4 " of putty. This one is the newer 69-75 style with the wipers mounted on the bottom to have taller glass. I have the wipers wired and working. It even has somebodys graduation cap tassle from 1974. Which if it's from high school they would have been born in 56 the same year as my jeep. I also tried wiring the gas guage. At empty the guage reads 1/2 and at full pegs the guage past full. I thought it was becuase the guage is 6 volt and I have 12 volt going to it. so I got a 12-6 volt reducer and it's still reading the same. I checked with a voltmeter and still have 11.5 volts at the guage and 12.5 on the battery. I don't know if the reducer is bad or what it is. Whould like to hear your thoughts.
This probably has more than you really want to know about instrument cluster regulators.
I drew a quick diagram of how the regulator sits in the circuit. If you have 11.5 volts out of the regulator, it is fried. You should have about 5-volts out of the regulator. If it is working properly, it will drive a digital meter nuts and it may make the needle on a good old analog meter quiver around. Either the contact points are welded shut or the heater for the bi-metal strip has opened. You have nothing to lose – pry it open and see what you can find.
As I said in the last discussion, just about every manufacturer used the same type of regulator. If you can find one for a ’56 Ford, Chrysler, Dodge, Chevy or whatever – it will be very close to the one you have.
Thank you all. The past owner said it was 12volt and had a 12v battery. Still had the original generate and 6v coil. Some of the lights were 12 and some were 6. I got the reducer from the local napa, just a universal unit. Looking at your diagrams you have grounds labeled. I just mounted it to the firewall so I might not be getting a good ground. I'll try a better ground and if that doesn't work maybe I got a faulty reducer from the factory.
I did an experiment with the voltage reducer by wiring a headlight to it. Then with the extra voltage draw it dropped to 6v. The reducer I have is ceramic with a wire filament that only drops volts when it has load on it. Like for headlight or heater motor. So I think i need to find an electronic reducer that will reduce volts constantly.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote