My first vehicle! 1956 CJ5

[LarrBeard]

the plug I had on the main power wire had melted.

Connectors on wiring harnesses are a perpetual weak point. GMWillys can speak to that on things other that old Jeeps.

I put a replacement wiring harness on the '48 and all in all it was great - but there was one oh-by-the-way.

The horn might or might not blow when I wanted it to hoot. I lived with it for a year or so, then one day when I had nothing else to do (!) I went bug hunting. I finally ended up at the middle of the steering wheel under the horn button. It turned out that the connector on the horn wire had been crimped on insulation, not the copper conductor (well, just barely on some copper).

[gmwillys]

Old Jeeps or anything that has been around the block a few times has the potential to be troublesome when it comes to wiring harnesses. In northern climates especially, if someone starts probing wires with a test light, and doesn't seal up the probe holes, then there are potential internal wire corrosion that can happen. This can fool you visually to think a wire is good, but within the sheathing because you may not see the probe hole right off. I had a Ford plow truck one time that the cab marker lights would pop the fuse immediately when the lights were turned on. I searched for a short for an entire morning and didn't see anything visually. I finally was fed up with looking and stuck a screwdriver in the fuse holder and waited to see something get hot. Within a few seconds there was a wisp of smoke coming up from the main harness on the fire wall. The wire that was hot was probed at one point, and the wire was green with corrosion on the inside. A ten-minute splice and re-seal and the lights worked perfectly again.

[56willys]

Now that I finally have more time to spend in the garage. I'll be getting back to work on Flossy here.
I replaced the last remaining parts of the clutch linkage. The bellcrank(?) (Tube that goes between the frame and t-case with the clutch cable and link rod attached) for some reason I can't think of it name currently, haha. But I realized the old one had some slop. So I pulled it out and sure enough inside looks like it cam from the titanic. It was all nasty, excessive wear, and very dry with lots of rust and no grease. Got all new installed and now the clutch linkage is 100% new. It feels like it's hydraulic, I can push the pedal in by hand standing outside the jeep. Super smooth!

Then I got the hardtop installed. From what I can guess it's an original jeep part, from the mid 60s. I still have some brackets I'm not sure of placement yet. And since I have the newer tall windshield I couldn't get all the bolts in place along the front. But it still seals and is held on well. The doors just have a simple piano hinge that bolts right onto the side of the tub. I'm not super thrilled about having holes there when I take the doors off, but that's why I like the patina jeep. Because it won't be any worse then all the other holes everywhere else.

With winter here, and penndot covering the roads with a jeeps most dangerous foe, SALT. I think it's getting time to pull the engine for its light rebuild. I don't plan on a complete rebuild. Just a refresh with new seals and gaskets. You already know of the rear main seal issue which has been partially fixed by lucas. But it still leaks everywhere else. For time, and budget reasons, hopefully I don't need to do a total remachining and all new parts. I'm planing on just replacing what is bad and keeping as much as I can how it is.

I'll also, if I have time, go through the trans, and t-case. Maybe find something wrong in there that could be causing the problems with the overdrive unit.

Like I said I'm not doing a complete rebuild, just freshening up what it needs. It won't be anything like some of the fancy rebuild threads there has been on the forum, haha! I've never done any engine/transmission work before so I'm looking forward to a great learning experience. And just keeping it simple.

Are there any specialty tools I might need for the rebuild? That I should get in advance. I have a set of calipers, and my brother has some precision measuring tools. But any advice on things to get would be much appreciated.

The dates for my favorite event (Bantam Jeep Heritage Festival) was just released for June. And ill be getting my drivers license sometime in March. So hopefully I'll have everything back together sometime around then. If all goes well, I'm optimistic at this point...

[Catlewis]

Ideal conditions would be a situation where the crank still falls within "STD" spec allowing you to simply buy a set of rod and main bearings and replace them. Same with the cylinders, sure would be nice if they fell within standard specs and you could simply install a new set of rings and hone the cylinder walls. Cam bearings are a little more involved, so I'd let them alone if at all possible. If you want to put "money" into something, have the head completely gone thru, valve job and new seals. I found a 1970 Ford 429 like this back in 1996 (excellent original condition) simply cleaned it up, install new rings and bearings original cam & lifters, and this engine still runs great today. Make certain you keep track of each component and reinstall exactly the same. I have a block of wood (2" X 6") drilled holes in it for each lifter and each pushrod. Works great to keep things organized.

[56willys]

Thanks cat, if it is within spec to replace bearings without machining that would be such a dream come true. I doubt I'll be that lucky though. The engine runs just fine and barely smokes on occasion. But it's smooth and has plenty of power. So maybe I'll be able to keep bearings, and just replace gaskets. My main goal is to reduce oil loss. I will be sure to keep parts organized. I've torn plenty of engines apart, but very few were going to be put back together. Mostly just tear a junk engine apart to see what's inside. So I'm excited to actually make it run afterwards.

[Catlewis]

Like you I often tore things apart just to see how they worked (great teaching tool, nothing like hands on). First engine I ever rebuilt was back in the 1980's and it was 70's era 350 chevy. Spent tons of time cleaning and repainting everything, it was impressive to the eye. However I failed to understand the importance of making certain everything was reassembled "exactly" as it was disassembled. Pistons facing proper direction, rod caps properly oriented, etc. Consequently it didn't last long. I learned the hard and expensive way. Hoping to help you avoid this is my only goal.

[bmorgil]

Like you I often tore things apart just to see how they worked (great teaching tool, nothing like hands on). First engine I ever rebuilt was back in the 1980's and it was 70's era 350 chevy. Spent tons of time cleaning and repainting everything, it was impressive to the eye. However I failed to understand the importance of making certain everything was reassembled "exactly" as it was disassembled. Pistons facing proper direction, rod caps properly oriented, etc. Consequently it didn't last long. I learned the hard and expensive way. Hoping to help you avoid this is my only goal.

There is no doubt learning from the experience of those before us, is the most important facet of evolution. There are a few things that require precision in the repair of your automobile. Some "short cuts" inevitably cost a lot more time and money in the long run. If it cost too much time and/or money than you wish to expend and it runs, usually let it run. When the time is right and you love it enough, there is no better accomplishment than a job well done.

[gmwillys]

Core engines can still be had for a reasonable amount of money. When I was in High School, we had cores that we tore down and reassembled for practice and parts identification purposes. It was a great training tool. The engine that I was issued was the 348 c.i. big block Chevy. The valve covers alone were some of the best ones ever to be mounted to an engine.

If you are carrying good oil pressure, leave the engine alone outside of re-sealing the oil leaks. If that doesn't fit into your plans, then when the time is right, read your shop manual from cover to cover. Pull your 134 and set up a note book and photographs to notate everything that you take apart. With the aid of the shop manual, measure everything, and assess the true condition of the internals. If all checks out, then re-assemble carefully. It isn't rocket surgery, and for the most part was designed to be fairly uncomplicated to rebuild. Again, your shop manual will be your best friend.

[56willys]

Thanks guys as always! I love hearing the stories and tips from those who have experienced what I haven't. Helps me think of things with better perspective.

I sometimes go by the philosophy of "if it ain't broken, don't try to fix it" I would love to drop it off at a machine shop and get it completely machined and cleaned. But the budget doesn't want me to think about that, haha! Last summer when the rear main went out, if it wasn't for lots of lucas I couldn't have driven anywhere. So it needs resealed no matter what. But other then excessive leaks there's literally nothing wrong with the engine. So I think it will be fine with just gaskets.

I'll probably take the crank out, pack in the new main seal. Check bearings and put it back together. It should be pretty easy to get everything in its respective places.

What do you guys recommend for engine removal. I think I'll take off the front clip, just to get it out of the way. Should I take engine/trans out together? Or engine out then trans out from underneath?

P.S. I'm looking forward to installing the rope main seal. I'm excited to learn an old school repair!

[bmorgil]

I think it is much easier to work on with the fenders off. The transfer case, transmission, and engine assembly will get gangly if you try to pull them all out together with the body tub still on. The transmission/transfer case come out easily together. I would drop those two together cross member and all as an assembly. Support the back of the engine. Then the engine comes out easily fenders on or off.