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Thread: Willys Truck Gauge Clusters

  1. #11
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    That is great information. I tested the replacement regulator again this morning before I install it, and this time it read 2 ohms from ign to output. I think I was not making good contact before and maybe even this time as well. Anyway I installed the replacement regulator and the gauges read as one would expect. The temp gauge goes up much slower and rested at about 1/3 hot on the gauge. If the problem resumes, at least now I know what to replace. Thanks.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    "The temp gauge goes up much slower and rested at about 1/3 hot on the gauge."

    Was that with the engine at running temperature? If it was; by Jove, You've got it!

    One more set of info you might not need:

    The regulators with the auxiliary heater do not depend on the current being drawn by the cluster to heat the switch elements. Just about any replacement for Ford, Chevy, Chrysler or similar 1952 era vehicles will be very close replacements.

  3. #13
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    Windshield and fuel guage problems.

    Found this new-to-me windshield. The old on was missing glass and the whole bottom was rusted out. Had about 1/4 " of putty. This one is the newer 69-75 style with the wipers mounted on the bottom to have taller glass. I have the wipers wired and working. It even has somebodys graduation cap tassle from 1974. Which if it's from high school they would have been born in 56 the same year as my jeep. I also tried wiring the gas guage. At empty the guage reads 1/2 and at full pegs the guage past full. I thought it was becuase the guage is 6 volt and I have 12 volt going to it. so I got a 12-6 volt reducer and it's still reading the same. I checked with a voltmeter and still have 11.5 volts at the guage and 12.5 on the battery. I don't know if the reducer is bad or what it is. Whould like to hear your thoughts.
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  4. #14
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Instrument Cluster Regulators

    It is amazing how a topic will sit dormant for a long time, then we have several questions on that topic in just a short period of time.

    Over the last week we worked with a gentleman on an instrument cluster voltage regulator problem. You can follow the story here:

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...Gauge-Clusters

    This probably has more than you really want to know about instrument cluster regulators.

    I drew a quick diagram of how the regulator sits in the circuit. If you have 11.5 volts out of the regulator, it is fried. You should have about 5-volts out of the regulator. If it is working properly, it will drive a digital meter nuts and it may make the needle on a good old analog meter quiver around. Either the contact points are welded shut or the heater for the bi-metal strip has opened. You have nothing to lose – pry it open and see what you can find.

    As I said in the last discussion, just about every manufacturer used the same type of regulator. If you can find one for a ’56 Ford, Chrysler, Dodge, Chevy or whatever – it will be very close to the one you have.

    Good luck – let us know what you find.
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  5. #15
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    It seems to always happen Larry! It is amazing.

    56w, was your CJ originally 6 or 12 volts?

  6. #16
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If memory serves, Kaiser changed the electrical system to 12 volt around 1958.

    The windshield looks like it had lived there all its life.

  7. #17
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    Thank you all. The past owner said it was 12volt and had a 12v battery. Still had the original generate and 6v coil. Some of the lights were 12 and some were 6. I got the reducer from the local napa, just a universal unit. Looking at your diagrams you have grounds labeled. I just mounted it to the firewall so I might not be getting a good ground. I'll try a better ground and if that doesn't work maybe I got a faulty reducer from the factory.

  8. #18
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    "But, I have another concern. You mentioned that the regulator had about 8-volts in and out. If 8-volts is where the electrical system is running, thats pretty high if the battery has topped off its charge. A constant 8-volts on a 6-volt system will give a lot shorter battery life as well as cause issues with lamps and lights. Id check the voltage at the battery terminals with a pretty good voltmeter and if it really is 8-volts, Id look for charging system issues (most likely a defective voltage regulator easy fix)"

    I ran the truck again and all the gauges and light work, but the lights were very bright. Even after running it for about 20 minutes the voltage regulator was still sending 8 and closer to 9 volts to the fully charged battery. I took your advise and adjusted the regulator down to 7.5 volts and everything runs and looks better. Thanks for pointing the high voltage out to me.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    "I took your advise and adjusted the regulator down to 7.5 volts"

    That's great - you are a brave man. Adjusting a regulator isn't that hard, but most people are afraid of getting in there and bending tabs.

    Good Job!

  10. #20
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    Thanks, but the regulator I have has screw adjustments. The only trouble was I turned the screw to the right and the volts went up, so I turned the screw to the left (no brainer) and the volts went down. I was surprised how responsive the adjustment was. Thanks again for all the help.

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