I know that it is posted somewhere but I can't find it. I just bought this 52 cj2a and I need to fix a few things that are in sad shape, so I am going to pull the tub. I believe that i bought this one that has not been to molested so I am keeping it mostly stock. I think someone put on a cj3a windshield frame.
I want to remove it so I can pull the tub so I can fix the rusted frame parts on the underside. I think that someone called them top hat brace. where can I find them?
Is there a good place to buy sheet metal pieces? i know i need the step on the side of the tub. I could repair it but it will look better if I weld on a new one.
I am going to need all the guidance I can get. Thanks
If there ever was a trick to the steering wheel, it would be everything you can think of. They are notorious for sticking on permanently. gmwillys has success with a few methods. He will help here. I tried everything I could think of. The end result was a Do-More with a cut off blade. I had to remove the wheel completely by busting off what was left after all kinds of tries. I had to cut the hub open and use a chisel to split it open off the shaft.
The rain just sits on those splines when they are exposed. It will rust into a single piece. I would start by soaking it with your favorite rust penetrate. Rust Buster, Kroil, even WD40. Soak it for days. Use a heat gun on the hub, but not too much or you will melt the wheel. By far don't even start without a very good puller that contacts the hub and not the wheel. The wheel will bust immediately if you pull directly on the cover. https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...6-jeep-willys/
There are a few good sources for the steel. A few people on the site are working on the body. I am sure you will get some good sources. I used KW on my tub kit and I was satisfied. No steel you buy is going to fit just right. You should expect to have to do a little "correcting modifications".
Removing a steering wheel is more a game of patience, pressure, and penetrant. A good penetrating oil like the ones listed above by Bmorgil, with the Kroil and PB Blaster topping the short list for what I do like. Also, the more experienced guys use candle wax as a penetrant. A little propane plumber's torch heat on the steering wheel splines, (not enough to melt the plastic wheel) while pressure is applied by a good steering wheel puller;
Leave the pressure applied while alternating the heat and lube process. Apply both several times, then let sit overnight with pressure applied. Come back the next day and repeat the process. It may take a few days to see results, unless it is way too fused together.
The sheet metal pieces that KW sells on their catalogue are pretty good pieces. The individual pieces are produced and stamped in the United States, where the body kits/tubs are produced overseas. The hat channel kit fits well with only minimal adjusting and is actually pretty easy to replace.
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