Met up with Bob to discuss my axle rebuild in person and have him check my work. Was a pleasure and very informative day. Got a couple birds with one stone. Well I got a thumbs up maybe even an A+ grade. Lol Thank you again Bob for taking time out to look this over. I feel relieved.
To start with I found a post on the forum with a link to the Dana axle service manuals. I printed that out and followed the steps. And any charts included... this was very helpful. When reassembling I started with same size shim packs and adjusted from there. Got pinion depth first. Now I did change out the ring and pinion. Not a brand new set but a used set in real good condition. This is where I had to watch pinion depth. My original pinion was marked +1 my new pinion was marked +4 so I subtracted. 003 from shim pack. Set pinion and measured depth was in spec according to manual. A little math involved. Then moved on to pinion preload, again started with same size shim pack that was removed. Checking rotational torque. First try to loose so removed .005 shim. Then was to tight, so split the difference and put in a .003 shim and achieved 20 to 21 in lbs rotation. Satisfied with pinion set moved on to carrier. Again started with same size shim pack each side. Torqued bearing cap and checked back lash with dial indicator. First try had .003, a little tight. So moved .005 shim from ring side over to bolt side. This gave me .010 backlash It felt to loose. Then I changed it to move ring gear back to pinion like .003 to tighten up and got .006 on dial indicator. Tolerance is between. 005 and .008 so being inside those numbers I checked that off list. I also check this at three equal points on the ring gear, also all good.
Then had a check up by the doctor and got a good bill of health. I know this is a quick run through of process but hopefully it will help others. Best I can say is get a copy of Dana service manual and have on bench.
Hey guys the only thing I did not get resolved with my meeting with Bob is what this brisket taste like. We gonna have to arrange a get together and get that smoker fired up. Lol. hope this helps anyone considering this type of rebuild and again a big thank you to you Bob.
You are welcome Scott! Your grade is "Outstanding"!
You had a unique experience that allowed you to restore that axle exactly as intended. In the "Old Days", Dana used Gleason gear testing machines similar to the one I have attached a pic of. Every gear set was matched and then run across this machine. The monster took a specialist who had the ability to hear types of gear noise. The ring and pinion are installed into the machine. It loads and spins the gear set at a given RPM. The operator is able to vary back lash and pinion depth in tiny increments. When the operator hears the sweet sound of a proper gear mesh, they record the distance the pinion runs best at either + or -, directly on the pinion head by hand. This allowed the gear set to be set up exactly where it was running best, in the axle on the assembly line. It required the assembly line to "hit" that number etched on the shaft within .002" to get that sweet spot. As long as backlash is is in spec and you have the pinion within .002" of that exact depth position. All this required a special gear technician. A special, very expensive machine. A pinion that had a machined surface to measure against and a lot of time, for every gear set. I don't remember exactly when, but the practice ended in the new millennium. Modern machining and photographic pattern checkers do the job all that overhead used to do, in robotic precision.
If you have a pinion that is "etched" by hand and are re-installing a pinion that has a number on it etched by hand no mater the axle model, follow the service manual chart posted here for the 44 as Scott did. You will have a trouble free reinstall if you get the pre-loads right. If you are unsure if the axle has been rebuilt before or you do not have an "etched" pinion, you will need to read the pattern.
Scott, if you could take a picture of the pinion "+/-Etching"
The +1 was the original. The +4 is the one now installed. Just a note the gear ratio is the same, the reason for switching is due to damage of pinion caused by a hot bearing. Otherwise would have just changed the bearings and the set up would have been the same, for most part.
Thanks for those pic's Scott. Only original gear sets from the "Gleason Testing Era" will have those hand "etchings".
Notice the polished machined surface where it is etched. A very expensive part of the operation. Call me Old School, but if it was my Rolls Royce, I would want my gear set run across "The Gleason". It Takes everything into consideration. A noisy gear set would jump right out. No cheating the Gleason.
Final gear markings.... the paint matches the existing wear marks real close.
A good tip Bob showed me... thin down your paint before applying. Also use a nylon wedge between ring gear and case to apply some load to gear then turn your yoke to run paint across gears. Made a difference made nice markings.
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