Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 57

Thread: Rear axle

  1. #11
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,526
    Unfortunately, those days are gone. CAT isn't the almighty earth shaker that it once was.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,500
    That truly makes me sad gm. One of the Things I used to boast about in Warranty, was how My Spicer Products were the only parts that would live on a Cat.

  3. #13
    Member Skboyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Bellville, ohio
    Posts
    82
    I use cat equipment every day at work. I agree not the same as once was.

    Well my lady has come down sick, she has been put in hospital so I'm on hold with my project for a minute. Doing a little when can but most time spent at hospital. So soon as I can I will pick up where left off.

    But one question. If you were putting yours back together which method would you use? I guess that should been first question.
    Thanks gentlemen.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,500
    I hope your wife is OK. Best wishes there Scott.

    I would use new bolts with red Loctite on clean threads. If you were a real stickler for "original", they came with "Dual Bolt" lock tabs until sometime in the late 60's to early 70's. The lock tabs work well and only take a little longer. When the bolt suppliers introduced "Patch Lock", pre-applied encapsulated thread locking compound, production speed went way up on the differential assembly line.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 09-20-2023 at 06:50 AM.

  5. #15
    Member Skboyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Bellville, ohio
    Posts
    82
    Thank you. May get out of ICU tomorrow. Appreciate that

    On to the bolts... sounds good to me. Would I need washers to make up for lock tab thickness or Not?

  6. #16
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,500
    Always a good idea to make sure the threads are "chased" and checked for bottoming. However, I would say it should be fine.

  7. #17
    Member Skboyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Bellville, ohio
    Posts
    82
    Sounds good. Thank you so much. When time allows I will get started.

  8. #18
    Member Skboyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Bellville, ohio
    Posts
    82
    So when setting pinion preload do you use the slinger or not? And the nut should be torqued to what lbs?

  9. #19
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,500
    Yes, you use everything except the seal and the ring gear/carrier assembly. The nut is torqued to the minimum specification, then check the torque to rotate. If the torque to rotate is low, continue to increase the torque until you reach the maximum spec. Hopefully you will achieve the proper preload somewhere between the min and max torque on the nut.


    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...Shimming/page2
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-21-2023 at 08:06 AM.

  10. #20
    Member Skboyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Bellville, ohio
    Posts
    82
    The manual says 200 ft lbs torque for pinion nut. Read and heard conflicting info on slinger. Using it makes sense to me. Then add or remove shims to get that rotational torque around 20 in lbs.
    Had a little confusion on my info, wanted to clear the mud.
    Thanks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •