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Thread: Oil system restoring

  1. #21
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I think it is a 1/4" flare fitting. That means it would be a 7/16" x 20 thread pitch. Can you get a close up picture?

  2. #22
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    I'll try this weekend. However if the 2 oil outlet hoses from Kaiser Willys and the adapter I had all do the same thing, and if they are all 7/16"x20 threads, then the issue is the timing cover threads. I don't recall any difficulty or anything out of the ordinary when taking the oil hose out, but it was decades old, if not the original so it was well seated and sealed of course.

  3. #23
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    I'm still trying to understand where the oil drains out. Should there be this much oil left in the canister? It's been sitting for 2 weeks.

    Also, is it possible that if the oil pan was not put on tightly enough that the oil canister was building up too much pressure because the crankcase was not pulling any vacuum?

    IMG_0182.jpg

  4. #24
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The oil drains out the bottom through the hose and a restriction in the block and cover. The oil should drain slowly until there is a small amount left in the can. It looks like something is blocked up. The oil system is a closed pressurized circuit. It is under engine oil pressure. There is no vacuum, only pressure. The canister cannot build pressure. It will be the same pressure as the rest of the engine as indicated on the oil pressure gauge. If the gauge says 40psi, there is 40 psi in the can.

    The gasket on top of the can needs to be tight and new. If the supply hose from the can to the cover is blocked or the control orifice is plugged at the block, the oil will not be filtered or returned to the engine. Also the timing chain will be lacking pressurized oil lubrication.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-30-2024 at 04:36 PM.

  5. #25
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    There is absolutely no drain in the bottom of the canister. The bottom hole goes straight through to the top of the canister bolt. On the side of the middle of the bolt housing, I found a very small pinhole where is the only possible place that oil can drain. I literally emptied out the full canister, sprayed in some carb cleaner, and not a drop came out the bottom. So the oil really just goes back through this tiny pinhole and nothing else??

    IMG_0196.jpg

  6. #26
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    That's it D-66', the oil is forced under pressure through the filter and out the little hole down the hollow bolt and out the bottom. Don't let that little hole fool you, under pressure the oil is going through there at several gallons per minute. The size of that hole is critical to oil pressure control. That type of canister filter was around for a while in the 40's and 50's. Many vehicles used that canister type. My 59' Chevy had one!

    Normally when you pull the filter from a just run engine, it is fairly saturated with oil. The oil that is left in the can when the engine is warm, is a few inches. Its a mess there's no way around it! Some rags around and a coffee can to transfer the filter immediately to. I use the trusty veterinary syringe from the local livestock store, and a small piece of hose slipped over the needle end. Suck out all the remaining oil you can. From there its a paper towel wipe fest until its clean. Its not a big problem, just the way they are. As long as the oil is draining back to the timing cover you are all set. There is always some left in the bottom.

    I almost forgot to address gm's point about the hoses. The hose issues were related to the crimps and the hose, and there was a lot of them. They leaked and even came apart. I have some pictures of mine somewhere. There was a split from the crimp to about one inch long on the hose. I think LarrBeard had some custom made.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 06-04-2024 at 06:21 AM.

  7. #27
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    On a bit of worthless knowledge tid bit, there was/still is a toilet paper oil filter kit out there. You have to use John Wayne toilet paper, but from some testing that I read, they were pretty efficient.... depending on what you read. I'll stick with the canister filter.

    https://www.toiletpaperoilfilter.com...3/10279878.htm

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...e-them.151919/
    Last edited by gmwillys; 06-04-2024 at 09:32 PM.

  8. #28
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I am out on that one gm! I have seen toilet paper dissolve into a paste. I would be extremely concerned the volume of oil through the motor might be compromised. And then if/when that paper starts to come apart... Now that is a nice kit. Perhaps find a Wicks element that would fit in?
    Last edited by bmorgil; 06-05-2024 at 03:43 PM.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    That's it D-66', the oil is forced under pressure through the filter and out the little hole down the hollow bolt and out the bottom. Don't let that little hole fool you, under pressure the oil is going through there at several gallons per minute. The size of that hole is critical to oil pressure control. That type of canister filter was around for a while in the 40's and 50's. Many vehicles used that canister type. My 59' Chevy had one!

    Normally when you pull the filter from a just run engine, it is fairly saturated with oil. The oil that is left in the can when the engine is warm, is a few inches. Its a mess there's no way around it! Some rags around and a coffee can to transfer the filter immediately to. I use the trusty veterinary syringe from the local livestock store, and a small piece of hose slipped over the needle end. Suck out all the remaining oil you can. From there its a paper towel wipe fest until its clean. Its not a big problem, just the way they are. As long as the oil is draining back to the timing cover you are all set. There is always some left in the bottom.

    I almost forgot to address gm's point about the hoses. The hose issues were related to the crimps and the hose, and there was a lot of them. They leaked and even came apart. I have some pictures of mine somewhere. There was a split from the crimp to about one inch long on the hose. I think LarrBeard had some custom made.

    Okay so I figured that was it. Yes I was always aware there was leftover oil in the canister, but I never knew the little hole is where it drained out from.

    The other issue I continue to face is that the oil outlet hose fitting isn't fitting into the timing cover threads. Its like its a fraction of a size too small, but the thread count seems to be equivalent. When I just insert the fitting into the timing cover section, it can bypass 3 threads before it even meets resistance. One turn and its connected by a thread, attempt to keep tightening and off it comes again. I am thinking about just buying a straight through flare fitting with a slightly larger thread size to see if I can't just get it to go in. Even if I cross thread it, that's fine because I don't ever plan on taking it out again at this connection point.

  10. #30
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    Welp. Finally figured out. The thread port on the timing gear cover is stripped/stretched. As if someone at some point point in too large of an adapter. I can see a small crack in now too. I'm debating to have a machine shop see if they can fix it, or if it would be worthwhile to replace the cover and gasket itself.

    I'm just a bit concerned with removing the cover, someone here mentioned that a harmonic balancer will be needed? I neither own one nor know how to use one.

    It looks like the cover can be removed from the top of the engine bay without having to remove the grille, yes?

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