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Thread: Oil system restoring

  1. #1
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Oil system restoring

    I was reading a post by LarrBeard regaling us in the tale of his beautiful truck spraying oil all over his engine compartment. I thought to myself what a terrible thing to happen to such a like new super clean engine compartment. A "baptism by fire". Then I decided to dry up my last little issues with my oil lines and change out the filter for the first time since the restore. A whopping 150 miles on it. All went smooth. I had and have had trouble with that copper gasket under the filter canister bolt. The copper requires a lot of force to make it seal and a used one will never seal well. I do not like applying a lot of torque to that bolt. I have used composites but I could not come up with one "FAST ENOUGH". Oh the cost of that!

    I decided to fabricate one out of some thick soft gasket material. It didn't work. Took it for a 2 mile spin. Pumped 1/2 of a quart of oil onto the underside of the hood, all over the distributor, Alternator various other parts. I got back from the ride only to see massive oil dripping from the front of the jeep to the back. Amazing the mess that causes.

    Spending the day taking things apart and cleaning it all back up. Well it needed a good "dusting off" after the winter! And of course the first show of the year not cancelled due to COVID is Tuesday! I will be taking apart and cleaning for the next 2 days. I went to the Auto parts store looking for a "Willys A-1233 Gasket" for the cover bolt. On line https://www.rfjp.com/p-131-oil-filte...ket-a1233.aspx But I wanted it now and not copper! It is a 7/16" I.D. x 1" O.D. gasket. I found several assortments. I bought them all. Here we go again.

    DA#@ IT!!!!!

    The hose should be a flare fitting on the timing cover and a pipe fitting on the canister. Hopefully no one has changed things! The hose issues were related to the crimps on the hose. They leaked and even came apart.

    I think gm has you covered, it must be the wrong thread. It sounds like you are trying to put a pipe fitting into the Flare at the cover. The gasket at the top bolt is a special one. I had a similar issue when I tried to use a cheap washer gasket under the bolt. Didn't work sprayed oil everywhere!
    Last edited by bmorgil; Today at 06:07 AM.

  2. #2
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    Oil system restoring

    1957 F-134, and wanting to fix up the oil system. Specifically, replace the oil filter canister because the mounting brackets are broken, and also install new lines. I want to change the fittings so that it'll be easier to take the canister off when changing the oil so that I can empty the canister. I do a yearly oil change so the canister ends up with some pretty bad/sludgy oil inside of it.

    Here are some pictures of my current engine and what I saw online for what I'd like to do. Removing the old brass fittings was challenging, I had to use vice grips and virtually ended up rounding off the heads they were so badly worn.

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...1&d=1702939271

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...1&d=1702939401


    I can't tell if these are some kinda quick connect or hand-turn to release fittings, but this looks like the kinda fittings I want to go with at least on the canister. The hoses can be whatever as I won't really be messing with those.
    https://www.jeepforum.com/attachment...58-jpg.650446/


    Hope this makes sense, I use it for work, it is not a show piece. But I'm trying to replace some things that are causing a lot of oil to end up on the ground.
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  3. #3
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Yes, it is annoying to have to suck out the last bit of oil out of the oil filter canister. Aeroquip does make quick disconnects that are small enough that they will go in line with the correct size hoses and thread.

    https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/t...opic43043.html

    https://ph.parker.com/us/en/division...ctsList:false&

    The only issue I can see is that the hose ends are flared, so a custom hose would need to be made.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 12-19-2023 at 01:52 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    I could be wrong but I thought I had seen someone selling a kit to use a regular spin on oil filter. I don't remember who had them and can't find it know. Maybe some one else knows.

    Or just an idea, what if you drill and tap into the bottom of the canister and install a petcock, or valve of some sort. That way you could just turn it and oil would drain out the bottom.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    A simple petcock would be the quick and easy way to go. The link below is for the available spin on filter kit for the L and F 134.


    https://shop.willysamerica.com/Oil-F...se-p/24755.htm

  6. #6
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    So that spin on oil filter bracket would mount where the old oil canister would? Any advantages of going with this versus keeping the factory system? Better filtering? Aside from obviously easier to swap the filter out.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The spin on can be mounted anywhere. The benefit would be the ease in changing the oil. There would be little benefit in filtering unless you added more than one filter or used a larger than stock filter.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Mike P's Avatar
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    My MB canister has a drain plug in the bottom of it IIRC?

    Edit* Yup, found a pic.
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    Last edited by Mike P; 12-23-2023 at 02:59 PM.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Now that's a nice setup!

  10. #10
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    I think it would make the most sense to keep the canister setup, and with the new hose connections just get something that would be easier to take off the top hose, then I can tip the canister down while keeping the bottom hose connected and just drain the rest of the oil out that way.

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