Page 14 of 14 FirstFirst ... 4121314
Results 131 to 139 of 139

Thread: 1958 CJ-5 going on a 1972 Chassis

  1. #131
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,956
    It looks great! I love that color scheme.

  2. #132
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Posts
    201
    Hey Jafopt, I asked TJ way back when what the color code for that grey metallic paint you used on the body was and he didn't know. Do you know what that color is? It's very similar in color to my CJ5 that I'd like to repaint. Thanks!

  3. #133
    I do not know. Sorry.

  4. #134
    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    It looks great! I love that color scheme.
    Yes, it's the color scheme of national champions.

    BTW, any idea what I can put on her to adjust the camber? My mechanic says it's about 5 degrees pointing out at the top of the tires, and that floating ball joints may help. But he couldn't find ones to fit it. I called Kaiser Willy's and my local Jeep parts place. They didn't have them. The local guy told me we could "pigeon toe" the front wheels to give it more stability.

  5. #135
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,956
    Jafopt, Does it have Positive or, Negative Caster? What is the actual caster reading measured by the alignment shop? "Pigeon toeing it" will wear the front tires and do other things. I don't like that idea. I wouldn't worry about the camber. It is based on the load of the axle beam.

    Screenshot .jpg

    Here is a shim vendor: https://tiresupplynetwork.com/collec...Y7jle0tVuG0kj3
    Last edited by bmorgil; 02-01-2025 at 07:08 AM.

  6. #136
    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Jafopt, Does it have Positive or, Negative Caster? What is the actual caster reading measured by the alignment shop? "Pigeon toeing it" will wear the front tires and do other things. I don't like that idea. I wouldn't worry about the camber. It is based on the load of the axle beam.

    Screenshot .jpg

    Here is a shim vendor: https://tiresupplynetwork.com/collec...Y7jle0tVuG0kj3

    We are at +2. The mechanic said he should have done 3, but it was going to mess with the front drive shaft. Funny story, now I can no longer shift into 4WD, only N and 2H. He's gonna take a look at it tomorrow.

  7. #137
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,956
    I would be sure it has Positive Caster Jafopt. I would try at least 3 degrees of positive caster. I would add positive caster as long as it doesn't start to get difficult to turn. The more positive caster you add, the harder the wheel will return to center and the more difficult it will become to turn the wheel. In other words the more the vehicle will want to track straight. I don't like to see it go more than 5 degrees Positive but, I certainly have set up cars that way especially in drag racing.

    What happens to the front driveshaft angles at 3 degrees?
    Last edited by bmorgil; 02-06-2025 at 09:05 AM.

  8. #138
    He said it changes the angle too much and puts it on a bind. I'm going to have to add spacers to the transmission mounting to get it aligned properly is what his initial thought is. I also have to get an alignment report so the guy I've been talking to at SPC can tell me what may need to be adjusted in addition to the Caster.

  9. #139
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,956
    I agree with him Jafopt. If the U-Joint operating angles become too severe it is not good. No interference is allowed. If the yoke and U-Joint interfere under power, the assembly will spontaneously disassemble. You need to make sure there is no interference when the wheels are all the way down (suspension hanging free as if you were fling over a hill) also. It is common practice to have to adjust the transfer case to accommodate the angles. Equal angles are most important followed by low angles. There are some options if the U-Joint operating angles get too large. Primarily you are the most concerned with the rear U-Joint operating angles because in our Jeeps they are not Full Time 4 Wheel Drive. Consequently the front driveshaft doesn't get as much action as the rear. The front driveshaft when its being used, is also usually at a low speed.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •