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Thread: 1958 CJ-5 going on a 1972 Chassis

  1. #111
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    A bit baffled
    Took the girl in to have the front end checked out (castor,camber and toe in) and everything checked out pretty good.
    It just likes to take off on its own “darting left then right”, it will wear you out trying to keep it on the road at 35-40 mph.
    The guy from Akron Truck Frame told me to put the stock tires back on it and try it to eliminate the big tires and wheels first.
    Then he said I should get HD shackles front and rear bc it’s flexing the shackles when it steers, I’ll try that after the tire swap.
    It’s really acting like it needs more positive castor put in it
    Kinda Baffled, the guy at ATF said the castor is kinda like a grocery cart affect and the front wheels need to follow along.

    Attachment 11719

  2. #112
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Pretty easy to add some positive caster TJ. Stick some wedges in the spring pads and see if that doesn't help. Watch the operating angles at the u-joint as you rotate the axle. Your guys explanation of castor is spot on.

    You need about 5 deg of positive castor on that thing. Too much is hard to have on a short wheelbase. I have seen and used 6 in some some fast cars. Too much caster and you will know you have gone too far. The steering wheel will be harder to turn at speed and the steering wheel wont return to center very well. What numbers did he read for caster, camber and toe.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 06-21-2024 at 08:08 AM.

  3. #113
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    I’ll get the numbers this morning as I’m going to pick it up shortly!!!

  4. #114
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Okay I got the skivvy on everything!!!
    The castor is 3 degrees, he’s used to semis not short WB vehicles!!
    Camber is set at 1 degree and toe in is at 1/16-1/8”
    So I need to get a 3-4 degree wedge and jamb it in the axle perch between the axle and spring I guess.
    Is that correct Bob?

  5. #115
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Yes. The camber cant be changed but the caster can. Tilt the top back 2 to 3 deg more and see if it likes that. That's all the camber you want and the toe is good. Are the king pin bearings set too tight?

    Something like these:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...3F3Szv54yHdJIs

  6. #116
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Yes. The camber cant be changed but the caster can. Tilt the top back 2 to 3 deg more and see if it likes that. That's all the camber you want and the toe is good. Are the king pin bearings set too tight?

    Something like these:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...3F3Szv54yHdJIs
    This is the new style front axle (Dana 30) with the open knuckles Bob, I can change the camber with offset ball joints but I think it’s good at 1 degree camber.
    I will run to Summit and get the wedges and throw them in to see if she likes that adjustment better.
    Last edited by TJones; 06-21-2024 at 03:41 PM.

  7. #117
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    I threw the stock tires on it and no difference whatsoever!!!
    Back to the 2-4 degree wedges I suppose.
    I think tomorrow I’ll go get a digital angle finder and check the bottom ball joint to see what angle it’s actually at degree wise!!!
    Then go from there and shoot for 5 degrees positive caster.
    Last edited by TJones; 06-21-2024 at 03:53 PM.

  8. #118
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Ahh its a 30. With real wide tires and any offset at all on the rims, getting the camber down real low is helpful. Like .25 to .5 is where I like the wide tires, with 1/16 of toe if any. As the tires and offsets increase, the tire stands more on its edges from camber. Toe is a big drag with wide tires. Toe is a bit misunderstood. Under load as you push a car down the road, even if you set it at 0 static it wont be 0 when its moving. It will toe out or toe in as the push loads the components forcing them outward or inward, and when the vehicle moves through jounce and rebound. I give them very little toe.

    That is not why it is darting right and left however. I think some more caster will help. A V8 CJ has a lot of weight over the front axle with very little on the rear, which isn't far from the front. Great for turning but, tracking straight isn't their strong point. On the 30 make sure you don't have a ball joint hanging up. I did have some warranty with ball joints on those getting badly worn (or frozen and alleged defective) and locking up under load. Especially if it they have been sitting. This will definitely cause it to dart left and right. Make sure the ball joints are smooth and not catching or ratcheting when they move. 3 deg of camber is a standard pass car setting. It should work OK., maybe wander a bit more than you are used to when used in a CJ. I think 5 works better. You have a high bar Tim, is it a lot different than the Orange Crush?
    Last edited by bmorgil; 06-22-2024 at 06:46 AM.

  9. #119
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Thanks Doctor Dana!!!
    It’s close to the OC but the offset is the same, tire size is bigger the OC had 32”s x 10.00 x15 on 8” rims and this has 32’s x 10:50 x 15 on 10” rims?
    This has 2.5” lift verses 2” on the OC.
    This has a V8 verses V6 but the frame is 5.5” longer, and I do understand the weight to inch difference in length (Good Point!!)
    Both have PS, but after the caster change I really need to check the ball joints for drag or hang up I guess!!!

  10. #120
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Dr. Dana comes through again! Great information there guys!

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