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Thread: Ford GPW motor stall when warm

  1. #1
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    Ford GPW motor stall when warm

    Looking for some direction and words of encouragement. 1944 Ford GPW that my grandpa restored. It has been sitting for 5 years but was fully operational when parked when his health went down hill. I have drained the fuel tank, replaced fuel filter, new carburetor, new spark plugs, new ignition coil, and new condenser. Motor is a little tough to crank but will crank while holding my hand over top of carb. runs consistent with great throttle response until a few minutes after motor is warm and thermostat opens up. motor then starts to bog and stalls out. not much success in cranking after warm, may crank and run for a minute and then bog back down. after letting it cool down for an hour it will crank back up and repeat same symptoms.

    I feel like there is something I am overlooking? are these symptoms of points needing to be adjusted? check the timing? Jeep was driven in parades and in great shape mechanically prior to being parked.

  2. #2
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    By “cranks”, do you mean it starts and/or runs?

    edit: I get a little cranky on some of this stuff. I got called out on a service call a short while back. The call was motor wouldn’t crank so I took a fresh battery with me on a 100 yard hike (boat dock). Motor cranked fine but would not start. The guy had run it out of gas.
    Last edited by 51 CJ3; 03-25-2024 at 10:28 AM.
    Jeff
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  3. #3
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    no issues with cranking as it turns over no problem. my reference to cranking is starting AND running.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Hello John! Yes clarify "cranks" for us. I think you are saying it runs great when its cold then dies as it warms. By "cranks" I am guessing you mean firing. How are you operating the choke? If you have to put your hand over the carb, I am thinking the choke isn't sufficient to start it? Is the choke fully on when it starts to run poorly?

    The start up process that seems to work well on a stone cold engine would be, pull the choke all the way out. Pump the throttle 3 or 4 times. Turn the ignition on and crank the engine. The instant it fires press the choke in to 1/2 way. Keep the engine running with the throttle.

    Give us a little more information John, I am sure we can figure it out.

  5. #5
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    thank yall for some response. that is the start up process i follow. I know that the stone cold engine can be tricky to get going. I feel like I have found the sweet spot for the choke during the warm up as any adjustment will choke it off. once warm and the motor starts to bog, the motor will not respond to any throttle, it just bogs out. i can see the fuel being squirted into the carb from the accelerator pump, so i know that is functioning properly.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    OK I got ya now. First guess, it sounds like it might be getting too much fuel. The cold engine may run with it but the warm engine wont. If you are seeing fuel squirt from the accel pump, it is not running out of fuel. I take it it isn't responding to the fuel shot from the accel pump. Is it acting rich as it bogs out, smoke rich smell? If it is, the float might be sticking open, flooding it out when its warm. It would struggle to start after that till it cooled off and evaporated off some of the fuel.

    There's my swing at the first pitch! Keep us posted John, it cant be much on these motors. Shoot some photo's of the project.

  7. #7
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    To go with the above idea I’ll throw in a possible air leak. Possibly a crack in the intake that allows more air in when it warms up.

    Another boat “crank” story: the same guy a couple weeks later calls me and says “boat cranks but won’t run”. This time I ask more questions. After asking the same question 5 different ways I finally get something like “it starts but won’t move”. Thinking at best I have to change a stripped out prop hub and the worse case would be changing a lower unit I was surprised to learn the boat not only started and ran fine, it also shifted forward and reverse fine. Someone had done a panic stop from forward to reverse hard enough to pop the throttle linkage loose. The motor simply wasn’t receiving the message to turn faster than idle.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  8. #8
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    bmorgil,
    these are the same symptoms as before I changed the carb. I can make sense of the stuck float on the carb that had been sitting for 5+ years, but what do you think likelihood of stuck float on the new carb is? when it starts to bog, it definitely starts to smell rich.

    51CJ3,
    I will look for some cracks around the intake.

    these motors are super simple which is why i think i am missing some minor adjustment that will get it back going.

    I tried to attach a picture below of the jeep, hopefully it worked.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by johnchap8; 03-25-2024 at 01:49 PM.

  9. #9
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    Nice looking jeep. The picture even posted right side up which better than most of my attempts!
    Last edited by 51 CJ3; 03-26-2024 at 06:02 AM.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  10. #10
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    thank you. gonna get it back going and then add a top and mount the shovel and axe. hopefully all by summers end. I will do some more inspecting and tinkering with the choke over the next couple of nights as I have time to work on it and then report back.

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