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Thread: Ford GPW motor stall when warm

  1. #21
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I definitely think there is something up with the carb. If it will run with some choke when warm, the problem is most likely in the idle circuit of the carburetor. If it runs with some choke the problem is not fuel pressure, it is not getting enough fuel through the idle circuit. Using the choke pulls fuel through the main circuit, allowing the engine to keep running if the idle circuit is plugged. If there is too much fuel pressure you wouldn't need any choke at all and the motor would flood without any choke.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-28-2024 at 04:51 PM.

  2. #22
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    This is a common issue with the Solex carburetors. If you get them tuned for off idle cruising, they often stumble at idle, and vice versa. Most of the time, the Solex is set off to the side and a replacement Carter carburetor is put into its place. The Solex is incredibly sensitive to tuning for perfect operation.

  3. #23
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    In moments of frustration with Solex carburetors, one person made the following suggestion:

    A. Remove the carburetor.

    B. Have a friend come over to your shop at night.

    C. Ask the friend throw the Solex as far as he can in some direction - preferably into woods or towards a lake or pond..

    D. Never ask him what direction he threw it!

    See, we have all kind of good suggestions.....

  4. #24
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Not a lot of love for the Solex. The French stopped making it in the late 80's. After that they were made in China or Hungary. They are known to work good or, real bad.

  5. #25
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    i think i will plan to go through and clean the old solex carb that i took off since I knew that it was operational and functioning well enough to drive for several years prior to sitting up. it does sound like the solex carbs are hit or miss from some of yalls feedback.

  6. #26
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    My 3A has an older Solex. It didn’t give me any trouble after I went through it. I found the base gasket to be a bit of a pain because there isn’t much for it to sit on and can be bumped out of position pretty easy when reinstalling the carb.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  7. #27
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    When I was playing around with the Carter on the '48, I went exploring to verify jet and orifice sizes.

    I found that a set of micro drill bits did a good job in verifying jet sizes and - as a bonus - they were handy to clean out all of the 35+ years crud that managed to cling to passage walls.

    A typical set:

    https://www.impressart.com/540-20-pc...l-bit-set.html

    These are standard English sizes - like Old Jeeps, not Chinese metric.

  8. #28
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    There is only a couple of conceivable absolutes when it comes to a Willys restoration. (1) The replacement body kits need a lot of work to make them fit correctly. (2) Solex carburetors rely on the moon and the stars to align perfectly to work throughout the throttle ranges. The cavoite to this rule, is never say never when it comes to a Willys.

  9. #29
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The good news is the original Carter is still available. If you cant get the Solex to work, you can always go with the original carb. Here is a link that might help with the Solex.


    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...-Tips-and-Info
    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-30-2024 at 06:55 AM.

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