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  1. #1
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    Very Worried

    If you read my radiator post you would have seen that I had coolant being pushed out of radiator and I found coolant in #3 cylinder. We thought what we saw was a crack and having a spare head I just got that head back from the shop, bead blasted and resurfaced
    However what I did today was install a rubber gasket and a plank of wood over the old head, put nuts and bolts and effectively isolated #3 combustion chamber. I filled it up with solvent and pressurised it through the spark plug hole, I have a good 125 psi going in......Does not appear to be leaking through what I thought was a crack
    Now I had the blocked decked and the head resurfaced and the shop that did the work used a copper gasket..... So now all I can be thinking is some how some way cylinder pressure in #3 hole is pushing antifreeze under the gasket
    As Mr B suggested im not going to use a copper gasket and I was thinking of using another sealant on head studs
    I have a machinist straight edge that I will check the head tomorrow
    What im really concerned is it's a block crack. A block crack will devastate me financially as I just had this engine rebuilt and assembled less manifolds water pump and so on
    To look for another block after spending what I did for this block (old original block was N/G, I dont even want to think about it
    So things can be worse but fingers crossed

  2. #2
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Steve, I think your OK. I thought way back, in one of your threads, you mentioned bolts instead of studs were in your engine. I have said it a few times here but its worth saying it one more time. Using bolts instead of studs notoriously cracks the block at the threads in in the block. It can usually be repaired. If that all looks good, I would reassemble with the correct process and the composite gasket. Re-Torque after a heat and cool down, just as we spoke of earlier. Before you fire it after it is reassembled, run a pressure check. Fix the radiator neck so you can use your tester.

    No sealer on the studs. They do not enter the water jacket. The studs and gasket need to be installed correctly. There are some links to the service manuals in the Tech Section of this Forum. Follow the process as written and you should be fine.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-03-2024 at 05:55 PM.

  3. #3
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    I got a machinist straight edge and there is what I think is excessive clearance right next to #3 cylinder near the water jacket. How that is possible I have no idea, but when I checked the other head I just got back from shop that was resurfaced it was perfectly flat. I put a new head gasket ( not copper) installed the head and so far it seems to be ok. I see the coolant circulating in the radiator, something I couldn't see before as there was to much foam and bubbling, and I ran it for awhile at high idle and no issues....Im waiting for a new radiator cap and than im going for a road test
    Im a little confused about the head studs, I clearly see coolant through some of the holes, I used #2 permatex on those studs
    Thanks for all the help Mr B

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    You should not see any coolant at the head studs. If you do it has to be coming from around the stud at the gasket or the threads in the block are cracked at the stud. Sealant wont do anything as the studs do not enter the water jacket, unless the threads are cracked in the block. If you have warmed it up, re-torque the head stud nuts in sequence once the motor has completely cooled off. If the water is still coming up around the studs, the head gasket is not sealing there or, there is a crack where the stud threads into the block or, in the head at the stud hole. The flat head casting itself does not usually crack, though it can and will warp under the right conditions. If you are sure the head is now flat, re-torque and watch for water.

    If the threads in the block are cracked, It can usually be fixed with a threaded insert. On an assembled motor you will have to be careful with the metal chips from drilling and taping. Lots of duct tape and a shop vac will get the job done. Here is a picture from a web search of a L134 with some block repair. This block had to be "pinned" as well as inserts.

    You are welcome Steve, keep at it, she's looking good!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-07-2024 at 08:20 AM.

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