A. I've already decided to reroute the tube and get the curly-Q out of the system. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but I've never had a bad idea on purpose.Originally Posted by bmorgil
B. The lube level is still "pinky level" down from the fill hole. I've got a little short pinky, but it's not at "dripping out the hole" full. (How are those for exact engineering units?)
Perfect engineering terminology, it is technically very sound. I would take it down to "Can barely touch with pinky". What gear lube weight is in there? If it is a heavy SAE 140, I think you need to try something with an SAE of 75W85. This is real good stuff. https://www.redlineoil.com/75w85-gl-5-gear-oil. I think the location of the ring gear in the housing on that Timken, puts the ring gear very close to the vent. In the old days it was probably filled with some form of Mineral oil that didn't have a lot of "clingy" modifiers in it. A heavy oil would really create some increased oil sling. I also think straightening the hose is going to help a lot. Maybe try that first.
Little things you find on a Quarantine Afternoon
A. When you give a truck a thorough polishing and waxing, you find out that it has only slightly less surface area than an aircraft carrier … or so it seems. The chrome strip down the middle of the hood is going to have to come off to clean all of the buffing dust out from under the joint where chrome meets hood. Long armed grandsons will come in handy here.
B. Trucks, station wagons and sedan delivery hoods always flapped in the breeze. Willys offered a kit to reduce the flap, but I’ve no idea what was in it. Butch added a snubber on each side of the hood and at the eye watering speed of 45 MPH; the hood doesn’t flap anymore!
C. I straightened out the vent line and gave the truck a couple of runs to see what happened. AT a cold start, it pushed out a bolus of oil about an inch or an inch and a half long in the tube. (My smart daughter taught me that “bolus” was a slug of liquid introduced directly into something, like: “I’ll have a bolus of Jack Daniels please”. There is some more proper medical definition I don’t want to know). But, back to the vent tube – after a 20-mile trip around the county road circuit, it had asspirated back down into the case. I consider this annoyance solved. Thanks Bob, as you said – if there was anything thrashing around in there, it would just keep on comin’. Oh by the, it’s 85W140EP oil. Heavier than you recommended, but I don’t think it will ever get hot enough to get to 140. When I drain it, I’ll go to 75W85EP.
D. And, just to show that there is always just one more tweak to make … I had an issue that after about thirty minutes of running, the horn would not blow. Something got warm – not hot- and it just didn’t give a hoot! Now, the horn has always been a bit anemic – more a comic “oogah” than a “get outta my way” blast.
I suspect everyone else already knows what I am about to tell, but I went exploring. There is a screw on the back of the horn that just looks like it had to adjust something. SO, I got my little stubby straight screwdriver and turned it a bit CCW. The horn got more anemic and then quit. Hmmm, that’s not the way to turn it sez I to me. SO I turned it back to the starting place, back to just “oogah”. Well, let’s turn it CW some more; after about a quarter turn CW, it makes a nice “MOVE DA&&IT” sound, one I haven’t heard as long as I’ve had the truck – over 50-years. I’m still learning about this truck.
I have about a dozen paint spots that Butch has agreed to touch up once we get back to the new normal, I was talking to the granddaughter who coined the phrase that the truck was going to "spend the winter in the spa for exfoliation treatments". Her reply to my comments about little paint fixes "Aw Grandpa, she's just going to get the roots touched up". I am overrun with women ... And I wouldn't have it any other way.
Stay safe folks.
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