bb, what do you think the hardest part of the project will be?
bb, what do you think the hardest part of the project will be?
Yes it's been productive so far. Made more progress than anticipated. The drive will be the next part after the springs. I plan to build the two diffs, and connect them to the transfer case. I don't expect they will work, as I do not plan to do the internal gears. I Hope I can get the wheels to turn and steer left and right. but not the steering wheel itself. I think it will depend on the size of the axle. It needs to be tough enough and I may need to cheat.
Interesting question, this is my first car design from A to Z. When I first started I had high hopes of drawing whatever car I wished and 3D print it.
I realized really quickly that it would be a lot tougher than I expected. The main problem for me is that I have no mechanical engineer knowledge.
I watched a lot of tutorial of car designs, but they all fell short at the same point, they were all aimed at building the outer surface. That makes for nice renderings, but is useless if you want to 3D print them. You need thickness. In CAD software, a surface has 0 thickness.
The next big challenge for me was how to make the piece fit together. I'm no mechanics either. I own a car and did some minor repair when I could not afford to pay. To this day I still do my brakes on my car, but that is the only thing I do.
There was a big gap to fill. Then I stumbled on a company called 3Dsets.com. They sell digital files of trucks specifically for 3D printing and RC control. They have two models a Jeep Rancher and a Landy. So I bought the files for the biggest truck they had. A Landy 4x4 Wagon. I printed the truck and followed their assembly document. But before assembling the truck, I would design each individual parts by reverse engineering them. I learned a lot.
It gave me a perspective that I did not have.
Now back to your question, what should be the hardest part: Whatever parts that have surfaces that go in multiple directions is hard to model, unless you can split it into basic geometry. Fortunately, the Willys is pretty straightforward.
I hope you are still there The differential and the tub should be the hardest. But I have a plan to divide and conquer that should help me achieve them
Haha, we are still here for the long haul! Keep it coming man, a very unique thread. I cant wait for production. I am thinking you could move quite a few of these in the right environments. I hope we get a discount!
Bob
Made no progress today, the spring is still behaving badly.
Allow me to quote myself
Today I got the printer, it was already shipped when my decision of cancelling was taken.
So it made it's way home.
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So what would a wise man do: Return it.
Somehow the lid of the box got opened.
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and the printer made its way out of it.
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But, there is still the health risk factor. My main concern is the air emission when printing. Nasty stuff may find it's way in your lungs. There is also the "Do not spill resin on your skin" warning, but that is manageable.
The stuff in the lungs is a bit more complex. Most people do not care and run these machine in their houses with kids running around. But, I'm kind of chicken and would rather live very long and healthy.
The attraction of running it is still very high though.
I made a sealed enclosure for the printer and will run it in the garage. I should be able to give an update in a couple of days when I find out how to run this machine.
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Tomorrow, the 1:6 scale frame will be completed, pictures to follow.
BB Does your software convert us/imperial to metric or visa versa or both?
And do you need a blueprint with dimensions to make it easier?
I’m not sure how yours works, but the Insite I have you can set the scale either way but you need a set scale to check and it sets the scale to the measured distance to the scale you measure weather it be us or metric.
It sounds like yours is Very advanced as far as that goes.
I’m just wondering if we can get you a scaled blueprint to go off of to make it less time consuming.
Last edited by TJones; 09-10-2020 at 07:07 PM.
The software works in both unit. I prefer to work in metric. It's easier to work with fractions. I never remember the decimal value of 17/32*
Yes a blueprint with dimension is the best. In my case I did not have dimension, so I had to look the spec up. Once I knew that the Willys was 132.25in long I needed to find where these dimensions where from.
The software allows you to calibrate the blueprint. I selected two points in the picture and gave it a distance of 335.9mm which is 1/10 of the 132.25 in. The software adjusts the image accordingly. I'm probably off by a max of 1/16in
Does this help at all?
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The drawing looks to be a 2A. The windshield is taller on the 2A, by about three inches compared to the MB. You are correct, the fuel cap was under the driver's seat instead of through the body. Also the rear panel on the MB was solid, with no tailgate.