A. We got thrown out of the kitchen, and:
B. We found good thermostats.
*I'd call that a win for sure!*
A. We got thrown out of the kitchen, and:
B. We found good thermostats.
*I'd call that a win for sure!*
Kicked out of the kitchen.... My Grandmother never knew what she would find tore apart by my Grandpa, on the kitchen table or in the sink. It was usually the chainsaw upon last Sunday's paper, or a tire tube in the sink, and the vulcanizing kit laid out ready to patch a hole. She used to cuss him, but the mess was cleaned up by supper time. After he retired and they moved out to the farm, she made sure that he had enough shop space and machine shed that he no longer had to drag stuff through the door of the new house.
A pot and a thermometer for the sake of science, and saving the Willys engine, is a small price of scorn spent.
I can picture your Grandfather at that sink gm! Those were the days. I think inside our significant others know how much value is provided by someone who can do it themselves, even if it costs a little sanity.
I did the old stovetop test before replacing my puck style new stat with this old flap style. Started opening at 160 and fully open at 180.
With everything back together I did my 20 minute break in run last night and all seems good! I have a little oil leak at the fuel pump mount. I installed the gasket dry on that in case I had to pull it back off when I run the actual fuel lines as that is such a tight area. Also seems to not want to restart easily when hot but baby steps I guess? At least it runs, ha!
You have to love the need to test. Somehow, someway, no matter the potential banning from the kitchen.
If you have the Heat Riser operational under the carb, make sure it is fully open when the engine is warm. Heat soak from the "Stove Valve" under the carb is a common hard start when warm issue. If you are going to run the valve, it needs to operate freely and open quickly when the manifold begins to heat up.
Take a peek into the carb when its hot and has been sitting. Check the accelerator pump shot for fuel. If there isn't a good shot of fuel, the bowl could be empty for a few reasons. It could have boiled the fuel out from heat soak or, the fuel could be leaking out into the manifold.
Last edited by bmorgil; 05-25-2023 at 10:18 AM.
Thanks for that. The heat riser is operational. I think I may have fixed the hot start issue today. I had been having intermittent weak spark problems and kept cleaning the original points instead of replacing them as we all know how new electrical parts seem to be…Anyway, I had purchased a new set of points and condenser when I got the new cap and rotor a month is so ago. Today I but the bullet and slapped the new ones on and we seem to be good! So now all that’s left is…everything else, ha!
Here’s an interesting tidbit (to me anyway, ha!) A month or so ago I was at our local swap meet and was introduced to a local gentleman who “is the guy to talk to about WW2 Jeeps.” Turns out he has a couple GPWs and even a GP and a coupe half tracks!
Anyway, to make a short story long, I was asking him about my Jeep and he recommended a couple of books for me to get that would fill in a lot of the gaps in the knowledge I had about my little MB/GPW mash up. As it turns out it may not be a mashup at all but an ACM2 Jeep which has features of both the Ford and Willys Jeeps. Which is kinda neat? Going by the SN dates this could very well be the body that came with my ‘45 chassis. Pretty cool!
Learning comes when you least expect it, when you're not looking.