Oil system restoring

[bmorgil]

What I mentioned was the "Harmonic Balancer Puller" The engine crankshaft pulley, is also called the Harmonic balancer, Harmonic Dampener, Harmonic Pulley, Crankshaft Dampener and many other names. In the 134's it is called the crankshaft pulley, my bad. Sorry for the confusion I introduced, I have been around too long! The Crankshaft Pulley as it is officially called, usually will require a puller. I don't think you will have any trouble with that. The front cover needs to be centered on the front oil seal. So you need to loosen the pan and put the cover on first so the seal can center. The best way to do this is to put the oil pan on last. To perform this pull the crankshaft pulley, remove the water pump etc. and the front cover and oil pan. Then reinstall a new seal in the cover and install the cover loosely. Install the Crankshaft Pulley. Square up the bottom of the cover so it will match the oil pan and tighten the cover. Then install a new pan gasket and reinstall the pan. I have seen some successful attempts at just dropping the oil pan down and not completely removing it. Sometimes you will get away with this, usually on a fairly new engine or rebuild. Typically the oil pan gasket will break apart when you loosen and drop the pan down. You don't need to remove the grill, though the radiator might crowd your style a bit. Removing the radiator will give you sufficient room.

The fitting in the front cover can be repaired by a competent shop. You could also just get a used one. KW has some.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...-4-134-engine/

[DENALIHD66]

So I recently cleaned and replaced the oil pan gasket, so that shouldn't be a problem if need be. I already have the radiator out and fan removed etc. It doesn't look like I'll need to remove the water pump, and I replaced/sealed that just a couple years ago anyway and I'd rather not tear that off again.

When I remove the crankshaft pulley, does it need to go back on in a specific orientation? I can try to make some marks of how it sits before I remove it, but if it doesn't matter I wont bother. Might be a little easier to jack up the front end and let the axle droop down for some extra clearance. I'll start working on it this weekend and see how it goes.

[LarrBeard]

"When I remove the crankshaft pulley, does it need to go back on in a specific orientation"

There is a Woodruff key that lines it up, it will only go back one way.

[bmorgil]

You are correct no need to pull the water pump. If its recently replaced and all sealed up, leave it alone.

[DENALIHD66]

So I took a look at it this weekend. I loosened the timing cover fasteners. It seems the nut holding on the crankshaft pulled is 1 3/8". I tried to loosen it with a 3/4" socket wrench but all it did was spin the pulley. Will my impact bring it right out or will it just spin the crank? I was hesitant to try it without asking here first.

Also, do you guys seal the oil drain pain or timing gear covers? If so, what are you sealing them with, and which side(s) are you sealing? When I reinstalled my oil pan I simply installed it with the new cork gasket and no sealing. I fully cleaned up both contact edges to make sure it was a nice snug fit.

Another issue I seem to have is my front diff is leaking (at the drain hole) and also the back where it meets the driveshaft. As far as I know, it has NEVER been serviced in the Jeep's lifetime. I'm also seeing drips coming from the transmission too. It was just never serviced over the years and used for farm work so I'm trying to keep it drivable; it doesn't need to look in vintage shape or anything.

[bmorgil]

The impact gun will take it right off. You need to put it in 3rd gear and block the wheels when you torque it back up.

I do not use sealer, except where the gaskets meet each other. Some guys like it, some don't. You need to put a dab of silicone in the "corners" where the gaskets meet. On valve covers I use High-Tack (from Permatex) on the valve cover side. A perfectly clean surface is always a good idea!

The leak at the driveshaft sounds like the pinion seal. The drain plug leak is probably a worn out plug, or its loose. It is a pipe thread.

Getting a vintage jeep to not drip on the floor is a dream we all have. I have read that some actually achieve it.

[56willys]

Getting a vintage jeep to not drip on the floor is a dream we all have. I have read that some actually achieve it.

Ah yes, that dream I have dreamt so often only to awake and realize there's a gallon of oil on the garage floor!!!!

Some however, a precious few, have achieved the no leak willys, and gosh are they lucky!!

[gmwillys]

As good as the Heep is, (in my opinion) she still likes to mark her spot when the transmission and transfer case are filled to the proper level. Now that she is at a happier level of oil capacity, it only leaves a very small drip if driven or parked with a nose down attitude. Oil is cheap for the little that it drips unless I find that I need to tear it apart for something major.

[LarrBeard]

" Getting a vintage jeep to not drip on the floor is a dream we all have. I have read that some actually achieve it."

If it doesn't drip at all - it is probably empty. I have two sheets of cardboard under the '48 that I change every couple of years -- they make good fire starters after that long.

[bmorgil]

"If it doesn't drip at all - it is probably empty.

Hahahah! How true Larry!