1st Time Jeep Owner

[bmorgil]

The color of the wires started out white and black, and that's it! There weren't a lot of circuit's in the 40's. A reprint of the actual 1965 manual might have something better with the 65' color code. Those are hard to find.

The best way to set up the brake light is to utilize a pressure switch just like the original setup.

[Catlewis]

I already bought one of the mechanical / universal type switches with the arm. Not much info provided with it, I'm not even certain if it's a switch suitable for exterior use or is it designed to be mounted inside /interior?

[bmorgil]

I would return the mechanical switch. The hydraulic activation is so simple, it takes all the work out of it. Just install the pressure switch in the system right at or anywhere inline with the master cylinder, and wire it up. There are no brackets to mount or arms to adjust. This one is listed for the early Jeeps but it works on any system. Any of the pressure switches KW sells will work. I would only use the mechanical set up if the vehicle had one originally.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...-41-45-mb-gpw/

[gmwillys]

I second Bmorgil's advice on returning the mechanical switch. A simple but not cheap solution for the brake switch for a dual pot reservoir is to put in this proportioning valve with a hydraulic brake switch plumbed in.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...ster-commando/

The valve has two inlets and two outlets for the dual reservoir, but you can adjust the brake bias from front to rear. The downside would be that the valve would need to be mounted near the reservoir, so it would not be accessible while driving. A cheaper way to go would be to plumb in a T to adapt the switch in line with the brake line,

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...ster-commando/
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...6-jeep-willys/

[bmorgil]

Here is another source for the Tee in case it is 1/4" brake fittings. It should be 3/16" originally as gm indicated. You could install one of these anywhere in the brake line, preferably near the master cylinder and in the front line out. Since you don't have a front disc rear drum combination you don't need a proportioning valve, but as gm is saying they sure do make fine tuning the brakes easy. You are looking for a 652x4 for 1/4" and 652x3 for 3/16" and 652x6 for 3/8". There are a few places to get them including the local auto parts store.

https://www.applied.com/c-brands/c-d...ng/p/105264402

[Catlewis]

Thanks for info gentlemen!

[Catlewis]

Well, I decided to keep the mechanical switch and actually came up with a very easy way to install. I bought a two wire weatherpack pigtail, soldered wires + used waterproof heat shrink at both splice joints to Jeep wiring harness & mechanical switch. The weatherpack connector allows for the switch to be easily replaced in the future in the event of failure or normal service life. I mounted the switch to the underside of the access panel for the brake master and made the wires long enough allowing the panel to be removed and set aside without disconnecting wires. Really worked out to be a clean install + it's serviceable. Should've taken a few pics........

[gmwillys]

You'll have to throw in some photos for those interested in trying your set up.

[Catlewis]

Snapped a couple pics of the jeep last evening. Still need to build a front bumper & rear spare tire carrier. Hardtop needs the most attention now. Both doors need disassembled and sorted out. Windows do not roll down + handles need to be replaced allowing me to lock doors. Other than that, it seems to run great. It's about a 35mph vehicle!

IMG_2008.jpgIMG_2012.jpg

[gmwillys]

Looking great Catlewis. What are your plans for a front bumper and rear spare tire carrier?