Ignition timing question

[Fester]

Hello- I have a 64 CJ5 with the F134 engine and trying to set the timing. The previous owner installed an electronic distributor. What I noticed is that looking down at the distributor cap the #1 plug wire is oriented at around 6:30 o’clock. The shop manual wants it to be at 5 o’clock and it looks like the distributor is turned completely clockwise (advanced) as far as it goes. With the timing light the marks aren’t even close. Any suggestions?

[bmorgil]

Fester, see if this thread helps.

https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys.com/showthread.php?3281-134-distributor-intstall

Set the timing with the engine off. The electronic distributor fires the plug when the trigger aligns with the pickup. Go online and find the instructions for your distributor. Check to see how to determine when it fires to be sure. If you cant find anything, take some pictures of the pickup in the distributor so I can see what it is. Once you have the static timing set, you can use a timing light to check your settings. It should be right on if you correctly find when the distributor fires and align the timing marks to 5 degrees before TDC.

[Fester]

Thanks for the info. Yesterday I went thru the procedure. Set #1 on TDC and the timing mark was right on. Put the timing light on it and it was firing early. So I tried loosening the distributor to turn it back a bit and it wouldn’t budge. It’s set as far as it will move in the advanced position. Tried tapping on the distributor. Still nothing. Put an oil filter tool on it and tried moving it. Nothing! Don’t know what distributor is installed but it has the Prestolite PNX-1548 igniter and flamethrower coil. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[bmorgil]

Fester, shoot me some pictures if you can. I am wondering if you have a conversion or an aftermarket distributor. The "PerTronix" PNX-1548 igniter is an excellent conversion from PerTronix.

Unfortunately, a frozen distributor is not uncommon.

Start soaking the distributor housing where it enters the block with penetrating oil. Use a heat gun to warm the block "Hot" all the way around the block where the distributor enters the block. Try to heat the block and not the distributor. The idea is to expand the hole with heat and break it free of the cooler distributor housing. When it is good and hot spray the hole at the distributor housing with penetrate. The cooling effect will draw the fluid down into the block and between the two parts. Try your best to get the distributor moving back and forth. You are going to have to work at this awhile. Take your time, it will eventually come loose.

[Fester]

Thanks for the quick response. So when you fine tune the spark, does the entire shaft rotate? I thought it was stationary and only the distributor body moves, and then tighten back the fastener. Here’s some pics if it helps.IMG_6383.jpgIMG_6385.jpgIMG_6384.jpg

[bmorgil]

You are correct Fester, just the housing or "body" should move. The housing often gets frozen in the block making it very difficult to change the timing or pull the distributor out. As you rotate the housing you change the position of the trigger in relation to the plug wire the rotor is pointing to.

You have a factory style distributor that has been converted to a PerTronix magnetic trigger. I have the same set up.They work well. Make sure you are loosening the bolt that is holding the distributor to the block.

[Fester]

Hello- after 3 days heating the block with a heat gun and spraying wd40 around the shaft it came loose. Had to also tap it with a hammer and use an oil filter wrench to loosen it. Timing is good now with a light. Thanks a bunch for your help. Now off to read about the Weber 2-barrel carb adjustments. I think it’s running rich.

[LarrBeard]

Congratulations - you just learned that the three tools you need with an old Jeep are penetrating oil, a small hammer/heat gun and patience.

Bubba would have looked for a bigger hammer and smacked that sucker!