Hodakaguy M38 - Pics and Misc Thread.

[bmorgil]

I would definitely NOT enlarge the holes on the shifter housing. The throw is determined by the shift rail poppet ball design. Enlarging the holes will introduce a few problems. The cover position is important. I would not push the cover reward or forward. If you run into a cover with oversize holes they should be sleeved back to size.

The cover can be installed in any gear as long as the forks are lined up with the collars. I always install the covers in neutral. You should not pull the cover rearward. It should be installed and allowed to locate itself with the bolts as close to centered as possible. This is the way there were assembled on the line. I have never heard of making sure second gear has max throw. The throw is determined by the shift rail, poppet ball and detent cut positions. Popping out of second gear is either a shift rail and/or poppet spring problem or most likely, worn clutching teeth on the gears.

It is important to understand how the clutching gear teeth are designed and cut. When they are in good shape, the design of the teeth is such that the collar is actually pulled into the gear as power is applied. As the teeth wear this effect is reduced. When the wear is bad it will begin to pop out under deceleration. When the teeth are very bad it will pop out under power. A lot of mechanics do not understand the engineering we put in those teeth. They try all kinds of "tricks" to keep it in gear. I have seen bungee cords hooked to the dash! This of course just wears out the shift fork pads. Popping out of gear is almost always worn clutching teeth on the gear or the collar and usually both. I have seen many examples of this in the warranty returns we received.

[Hodakaguy]

Good Stuff, thanks for the reply. The info on the holes and shift tower placement was provided by Sal at Vintage Jeeper, always good to get info from multiple sources. Makes total sense on the indents setting the position.

Thanks for the post.

Hodakaguy

[bmorgil]

I have heard a lot of things in the Tech Service business. Some of the things that are tried in the field actually end up in a bulletin or manual. You see and hear a lot of things. Some of the things we heard about or saw, we would duplicate in testing just to see what happens. In this instance, you don't want to apply the tip. It will cause misalignment as well as improper positioning of the shift forks.

You have a perfect restore going there Hodakaguy. I am very impressed! It looks like something the engineering boy's put together in the prototype shop. First class.

[Hodakaguy]

Thanks Mate, looking forward to having it up and driving again

Hodakaguy

[Hodakaguy]

Vent line modification. When we purchased our M38 the vent line going from the trans/transfer case to the vacuum pump wasn't tied into the bell housing like it was suppose to be. With the floor panels removed now is the time to modify the vent line and get it tied back into the bell housing.




Brass inverted flare branch tee. This is installed into the bell housing.








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[Hodakaguy]

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Marking out the bend location on the tubing.




Making up the flared ends on the tubing.






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[Hodakaguy]

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[Hodakaguy]

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[Hodakaguy]

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I made the tubing fit up tight to the case so it wouldn't stick up and interfere with the floor panels once installed.








Now to bolt up the floor panels.




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[Hodakaguy]

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I had ordered new (reproduction) shift boots for both the transmission and transfer case. The aftermarket transmission boot was very high quality and just like the original, the transfer case boot was thin and cheap feeling. I tracked down some NOS transfer case shift boots from Dan at Classic Military Vehicles. The NOS units are nice and pliable and look like brand new, they also fit and look correct. I picked up a couple extra to store away in the parts bin in case these eventually fail, but since the Jeep is stored indoors and out of the sun they should last for years.








Floor panels re-installed.




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