the list! Of course it is huge, and so so much to do. but last two days have accomplished this. Removed all studs from block for ex manifold, some were okay, but studs are cheap... replaced them all. horribly frozen stud on manifold itself, took 1/2 bottle propane (darn thing glowed but it allowed it to move) and a small pipe wrench to get it out. again replaced. Minor defects in frame welded with new steel. including the crossover piece in rear, this was pretty damn thin to begin with. now to paint frame Olive drap, turn over order springs and shackles and get some stuff hanging on frame. new topic, looking at the electrical wiring layout. why did they not put in fuses???
have to dig deeper.... not first time... and yeah when i drove one of these things in the mud, blood and beer, never carried a fuse...... one note of interest. In the stud removal on the block i managed to wring one of the studs off, yup damn thing broke off even with the block.
was kinda pissed, but wth. went inside made a cup of coffee then went out and looked at it again. felt i could manage to drill small hole in center if careful. managed to do that, then went up a size in drill bits and made it bigger. now i needed a small 3/16 wide cold chisel, which i did not have, so i took a counter punch for finishing nails and felt that this was pretty tough steel so on a grinder i made a cold cutting chisel out of it, and using a 8oz ball peen hammer worried the remaining steel in the broken stud to eliminate it, by making it break up with small taps using the homemade chisel and got the broken stud out and ready to insert new stud. also took a 38cal bore brush on a drill to clean them all out, thread wise. NOW TO FIND CKT BREAKER AS LarBeard suggested. know tech manual has wiring diagram in it now to get magnifying glass to look, actually have two wiring harness's one pretty bad and one relative good shape
I managed to break the stud in my spotting scope swivel head last week. I'm not as good as improvising as you, so I went to good old Harbor Frate and bought a set of easy-outs for about $9.00. They're not great, but they look like they will be good for a couple of times.
The lady at Harbor Frate said "Have a good day". My reply was "If I need a set of easy-outs by 9:00, I hope the day gets better..."
Well, it looks like the M38’s had three circuit breakers – two active and one spare. From what I read, the M38A1 did not include circuit breaker protection – or maybe it was an option – I can’t tell.
The Main breaker feeds the Light Switch – which is the control center for all of the electrical doo-dads. The “Main Light Switch Feed” is Pin F of the connector.
Strangely enough too, the second breaker feeds the horn. Even in the ’48 Truck, the horn is a constant feed from the battery so you don’t have to turn on the ignition to blow the horn to warn someone.
Probably more than you want to know right now.
But, as the one guy wrote – 24-volt systems make a lot bigger cloud of smoke if anything goes wrong!
I participated and paid entry fees at Camp Perry - I was never in "competition". Ahhh yes, the smell of 4895 and the rattle of musketry on the morning air.
I have a post about M38 and M38A1 circuit breakers being reviewed. Since there are links in them, I suspect the moderator has to make sure I'm not sending you to anywhere naughty.
Short version: M38 has three breakers on back of instrument cluster. M38A1 may have three breakers up front somewhere - or it may not- depending on version. USMC may be different than anyone else.