well, the darn thing is out

[pelago]

METRIC VERSUS STANDARD USA!!! ran into that, pain in the ***,,, the brake fitting that kaiser sells use correct npt threads but the bolt size is metric????
THATS THE LINE ALL RIGHT!
the SUNDAY QUESTION ONE OF THE BOX STORES HAS PRE MEASURED 1/4" AND 5/16 inch lines, so here is the question. Oil flow and pressure, would you get the same oil flow and pressure if the size of the line is increased?? Even though i have one of those nifty line benders, my bending skills are not what they should be. worse for 1/4"???? So is there any change in oil flow if the size of that little line goes from 1/4" to 5/16" ??

BUT AS YOU SUGGEST LESS OF A PAIN TO JUST CALL MIKE AND SEND ME THE LINE...
BTW after 30 min of run time my oil pressure is a steady 30lbs with 30wt Real happy about that
And the voltage on the original meter (cracked lense and all) is in the green and the simpson says 28vdc. happy about that

[51 CJ3]

According to Bernoulli’s Principle, increasing line size would increase flow and decrease pressure in that area but it should return to normal where the passage gets reduced again.

[51 CJ3]

I just took a look at the pictures of the line. If you are looking at duplicating that line I wouldn’t think it would be very hard. Probably only need the bender for the top bend. I may be missing something but it looks to me like that would be a better and easier option than trying to plumb in a bigger line.

[LarrBeard]

I have seen at least two different versions of the line; one has a full circle relief at the top - the current version just has a shepherd's crook.

I can't bend up a line and get that cute little curl to clear the #4 plug - at least not as nice as Mike's.

[pelago]

I have seen at least two different versions of the line; one has a full circle relief at the top - the current version just has a shepherd's crook.

I can't bend up a line and get that cute little curl to clear the #4 plug - at least not as nice as Mike's.

that is just like the one i have on the motor and leaks at both ends, feel tht the flare is probably bad.................. cool add that to the order on 1st, carb kit, plug wires and oil line

[pelago]

BTW, I ACTUALLY GO THE BUSTED BOLT OUT OF THE OIL PUMP.


busted bolt.jpg

BUT DAMN THING STILL LEAKS LOOK LIKE I GOTTA GET THE $18.00 OIL PUMP REBUILD KIT.... MIGHT EVEN TAKE THE PUMP OFF THE OTHER MOTOR AND REBUILD IT AND PUT THAT ONE IN THE MOTOR PLANNING ON USING

HERE IS THE OLD GIRL RUNNING, ROUGH BUT RUNNING POINT AND SUCH COMING (ORIGINAL POINTS AND PLUGS AND WORE OUT WIRES)

https://www.facebook.com/ira.r.jones...3Njk3Mjk2MjU5N

[pelago]

THESE OLD MOTORS ARE COOOOOOOL Think for sure will do a complete rebuild job on the extra motor, dip it, new rings, bearings, if crank needs to be turned do so, if pistons or cylinders need work, do so. My neighbor just wheeled in a engine stand that hooks to *** end of engine.. valves and all that..... play with the motor i got and then drop in a completely ready to go new motor. nice having two of them. i paid 1200.00 for two m38a1 from two different people

[pelago]

BACK TO BUSY WORK. Rebuilt inst cluster with all new correct year gauges, picture has glare on it but all displays are new. interesting note thogh, i took all of the old gauges and using alligator clips to each guage and damn they all still worked..... not pretty but accurate. tested the odometer with drill its fine. old one not so good.. anyone need them amp, batt, temp and oil pressure, make me a offer i can not refuseINSTRUMENT CLUSTER.jpg

[pelago]

NEW QUESTION???
Carter YS carb. Seems to have 2 different size machine screws used to assemble these things. I have two of these carbs they have one thing in common. the top assembly has two thread holes stripped. looks like a helicoil repair coming up and a carb kit at same time, but if it can not repair the screw holes it is a waste of time?

ALSO right above the fuel intake that is a "vent" line, what is this used for? can it be blocked off? is this part of the myriad of vent lines for turning into a submarine?

ys carb.JPG



comments

[gmwillys]

It depends how much meat is around the bolt hole. You can do one of three things to fix the threads. Drill and tap for the next size larger, (but that would involve indexing the holes to match on the top cover and gasket). Next would be to use a helicoil, for the correct size. Then you could fill the hole with JB Weld, let cure, and drill and tap.

The vent line does in fact make your Jeep submarine ready. You do not want to cap it off solid, then the float bowl will struggle to fill. If you are inclined to remove the vent line, then I would look for a bronze breather fitting that would fit into the vent lines place on the carb.