Did you fill the tranny with the top cover off? If you filled it from the side,even with the body off, it would still drain out before putting the plug in. It's ponderous.
Gaskets and seals will pull a vacuum when the PCV system is working, then when the engine is shut down, it drains out the path of least resistance.
well for starters, i drained both tranny and transfer case, it needed it, pretty crappy stuff that came out, but it had been sitting for quite a while and it got a lot of junk out, got new oil to replace today
You may need to dump the oil after you run the transmission and transfer case a while. Then you should be able to use a suggested maintenance schedule as in the manual. I have had a chassis on jack stands, and run the engine in gear to leak check the entire drive line. Just be careful of spinning drive shafts and tires. Then drop the oil to see what you have as far as contaminants. Works well, but have a kit switch handy in case something doesn't feel right. This would also be a good time to check the brakes for leaks, and overall function. A whole lot easier to adjust brakes without the body attached, then after.
am thinking that a transmission going to need some seals................. damn, not the money but the time, and I HATE FREAKIN TRANSMISSIONS WITH ALL THOSE DAMN NEEDLE BEARINGS.. SSHXXT,FXXK,DAMX, HEXX AND I AM GONNA CALL IT A LOW LIFE SCUM SUCKING TOAD. As i sit on the garage floor with all this crap layed out in front of me!!
just watched some videos of rebuilding transmissions for this thing, and it scares the crap outta me,,, this thing has to face this way, this indent has to go out, watch the needle beardings,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,shheeesh
[QUOTE=pelago;5046]am thinking that a transmission going to need some seals................. damn, not the money but the time"
On the '48 we sent the transmission out to a local shop just because of all of those needle bearings and getting detent A into slot B and so on. Then, if it's not right, it is someone else's problem to get it right the second or third time if it needs it.
Sometimes a man has to know his limits, some guy said in a movie...
Just replace all the bearings while you're in there. One bad roller or ball makes it sound like a grinder.
got it, will study it, and i have my friend mike two doors down who does this kind of thing, the repair kit looks kinda basic and was told that the gasket that connects the transfer case to transmission is part of kit but that blow up expanded photo scares crap outta me
I had one from a ‘66 CJ5 apart and reassembled in an USAF dormitory parking lot many years ago. I don’t recall anything bad about the task. I currently have one from a CJ3A disassembled in my shop. I had some trouble getting the oil keeper(?) out. I am curious as to how hard it will be to put back but I am not expecting any problems anywhere else. If yours is new enough to have the T90C, I don’t think it has the part that was giving me grief. Also, if all you need is seals, then I don’t think you have to get that deep into it. Mine needs gears, bearings and more.
Depending on how the A1's transmission was used both during and after the vehicles tour of duty, the transmission may be alright. If the gear sets look like new, with teeth that are not worn, then a seal kit would be all that you need. With that being said, if there is corrosion/rust,wear, or sizable amounts of metal contamination, then you would be time and money ahead to go ahead and tackle the job while the body is off. Synchronizers are common ailments of these tranny's, also the second gear set is the other problem area. The symptom of a second gear set being worn is when you let off the throttle and coast in second gear, the tranny falls out of gear, into neutral. This is the most common issue with the T90. Otherwise, they are pretty much bullet proof. I have a stock T90 backing up the SBC 350, in my wagon, and it handled the torque just fine.
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