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Thread: Start-up Best Practices

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  1. #2
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Good idea!

    First step would be to pull the spark plugs and put in a few ounces of engine oil/transmission fluid/ and a good dose of penetrating oil. Do this before attempting to turn the engine by hand. Let the engine sit with the concoction for a half hour or so, in order for the penetrating oil to sleep into the rings. While you wait, remove the tappet cover on the driver's side, and lube the cam shaft and tappets. Inspect for broken springs, or damaged valves. At this time, adjust the fan belt to where it is snug in the pulleys. Use the fan to carefully rock the engine back and forth. If the engine turns freely, then continue to turn the engine through until both the compression and exhaust strokes have been completed. Pay special attention to any noises or a feel of something hanging up the rotation. On the F head engines, pull the valve cover to ensure that the intake valves are cycling fully. A word of caution would be to place a shop towel over the exposed spark plugs holes to catch any oil from running all over the top of the L head, or the side of the F head. Check the engine oil level, and oil condition. If the oil is milky, then the odds are is that the head gasket was likely the cause of the Jeep to be parked. If there is an excessive amount of oil in the crank case, then check to make sure that the transmission fluid and penetrating oil concoction didn't seep into the crankcase, past the pistons rings. Take this opportunity to check the coolant. If it is clean and green, then there should not be any issues with the head gasket.

    Once you are convinced that everything is operating properly, then it will be time to look into the wiring. Inspect the wires leading from the ignition switch to the coil for mouse damage. Repair any damage found to prevent a fire hazard. Once all the wires are cleared for electricity, it will be time for a battery. It would be helpful to have a helper when checking the starter for proper operation, in order to pull a cable off the battery in case the starter is stuck ingaged. If all checks out to this point, then it will be time to check for spark. Pull the distributor cap, and check the points to ensure that the contacts are clean, and are adjusted correctly. It wouldn't be a bad idea to hook up a tach and dwell meter to the distributor to adjust the points, at this time. Reassemble the distributor, then check the cap for clean contacts. Place the cap back on, then check for spark at the plugs while turning the engine over. It would be prudent at this time to run a compression test to determine if all cylinders will support the engine running. If the compression is right, and there is spark, then reinstall the spark plugs, (a clean used set would do, since there might be a chance of fouling a good set).

    Check the fuel tank for contamination/rust/holes. If the tank is a mess, tie into the inlet of the fuel pump, and run a fuel line into an external fuel source. Turn over the engine and observe the carburetor for fuel leaks. When the fuel bowl has adequate fuel within it, try and start the engine. Resist the urge to use a starting aid such as starting fluid. This could cause harm to the pistons or a fragile head gasket. Have a clean rag or a glove close to the carburetor to snuff out any carb fire that may happen if an intake valve doesn't fully seat. Also, if there is a back fire through the intake, check to make sure that there is no obstruction in the exhaust pipe. Mice store a ton of acorns and bedding within the muffler. listen to the engine to determine if it is receiving enough or too much fuel. If the choke butterfly isn't enough to pull enough fuel into the carburetor, the cover the carb inlet with your hand to limit the amount of air going into the carb. shutting off the air supply allows the carburetor to draw more fuel into the intake. This may have to be done until the engine is running, and the air fuel mixture is adjusted. If you are not receiving fuel into the carburetor, then the needle and seat are stuck closed within the fuel bowl. If you are receiving too much fuel, then the float may also be stuck in the down position, allowing fuel to drain constantly into the carb throat. A minor carb kit may be needed for the gaskets, if the float and needle need attention.

    When the engine starts, pay attention to the oil pressure, to ensure that it comes up quickly after start. Listen for any odd noises, and make note of anything out of the norm. Leave the radiator cap off to observe that there is no combustion gases escaping through the coolant. Let the engine reach operating temperature, then shut off. Drain the engine oil, and change the coolant. If all is normal, then you have yourself a good engine.


    Hopefully this covers most everything, but please add your experiences to cover any problems or troubles that you have run across.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 06-12-2018 at 09:33 AM.

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