Play with the gun settings, and you can have not of deep of ridges.
Play with the gun settings, and you can have not of deep of ridges.
yeah, to all, yeah, i kinda like the idea and will talk to the people that make this stuff and see about tint and color sorry to kaiser but this aint gonna get it https://www.kaiserwillys.com/moulded...its-41-72-jeep then got to get the passenger side and then driver side... https://www.kaiserwillys.com/moulded...its-41-72-jeep for fifty bucks i can spray bed liner and get tougher results..
three more items in, need to take them out when i spray so that they can get a coat on them but they are in and this tailgate is not "plug and play" no holes for the trailer connector. and the two mounting holes for the tail lights are 2" center and the holes on the tailgate section were 2 1/2 so had to diddle with those. and damn actually had a 1- 3/4" hole cutter that cut metal, wonders never cease, bit even sure if i got the left one in the left hole? have to look and see, i just got em in for fit
not plug and play.jpg
Last edited by pelago; 02-20-2019 at 04:45 PM.
For some reason floor mats and liners are rare and precious. A long time ago (maybe 1965) I ordered a floor mat for the '48 truck from Warsharsky in Chicago, "... fits all 1946 - 1950 trucks station wagons and sedan delivery ...". Well, fits meant you could cram it in if you cut it in enough places. I ended up sticking carpet squares on the floor to seal out the wind and some of the noise.Originally Posted by pelago
The original floor mat had a fiber mat backer and a rubber top mat. Pretty basic, but even now you can't get a replacement for the 2WD trucks that have the shifter on the tree.
I splurged and had some custom upholstery done for the floor. I ran one summer with no mat and that was one noisy old beast. When I put the fancy red carpet in, when I stopped at the first light, I thought the engine had stalled it did such a good job of killing the high frequency noise!
I think the bed liner as a basic coating and just a rubber mat to keep things from sliding around would be a good job.
By the way - the undercoat looks very good.
I believe I'm going to try the Dynomat for sound insulation. It is supposed to work well with with heat as well. Nothing will be perfect, because I still want to have the exposed steel rear deck for the oak runners to be seen. I'm not sure how well the matting would stick to the outside, or how much moisture it will retain.
when i bought my '35 ford pickup it had a oak bed in it, never changed that, but it was a cool truck with fifties hot rod stuff, man that was a long time ago
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nsearch...eakers%20m38a1
ckt breakers/fuses, is all that is out there, can not find fuse box or anything close on ckt diagram
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload...38A1wiring.pdf
This is a pretty good wiring diagram. It is interesting in that it shows the three circuit breakers as "Circuit Breaker Wiring if Equipped". I've only read about the breakers on those vehicles, but I have seen mention of a breaker box up under the cowl somewhere. But - there is a possibility it just didn't have breakers ... and it certainly did not have fuses.
And, of course, you find one more bit of information after you put up a post.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...wtopic&t=11105
Poke through this and it indicates that at least some M38A1's didn't have circuit breakers.
Just an opinion - I'd put at least one breaker between the battery and the vehicle wiring. Old harnesses have frayed spots and 24-volt systems can make smoke in a hurry!
Yeah, adding a breaker or even a fuse not a issue but current? have no idea about what to fuse the whole thing with?
Last edited by pelago; 02-23-2019 at 02:43 PM.
I have a large copy of that so i can see the numbers on the wiring ends, my wiring harness has about 80% of the numbers, and need those badly when i re assemble wiring, have a 24volt light bulb in a little ckt all by itself to play with as i figure it all out.
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