Put it over a piece of cardboard. Its easier to throw away the cardboard than clean the floor. Ask me how I know ...
Put it over a piece of cardboard. Its easier to throw away the cardboard than clean the floor. Ask me how I know ...
I like your thought process. Once you get it cleaned off it should be easier to tell where its coming from.
If you go after the rear diff cover, use the Fel-Pro gasket Part # RDS 6095-1. On the transfer case, they are notorious for leaks in several places. There are many thru bolts into the lube that must be sealed, shift rail seals that are tricky to install, and right were you are talking about, the output shim pack. The rear cap has shims under it to set the end play on the bearings. In a perfect world they seal themselves. I lightly spray everyone of the shims on both sides with Permatex High-Tack, prior to the final install after determining end play. I think they eventually leak if you don't.
I love those rifles! Man they look perfect setting on that M38A1.
Last edited by bmorgil; 11-14-2019 at 09:30 AM.
Originally Posted by bmorgil
Tese guys do make a lot of gaskets dont they... they the best ones for my motor rebuild of the 134f i am doing?
Yes I think so. Here is a link to a 1960 F4-134. https://www.felpro.com/find-my-part/...=1960~Jeep~CJ3 I wasn't sure of your year. An F head is an F head however. I have had a lot of success with Fel-Pro gaskets through the years. Even though I worked for Dana and they owned and I sold Victor Gasket, there were times when the Fel-Pro was preferred. I just think it would be unusual to have a bad result with them. Whatever you do don't take a chance on any other head gasket. There is a lot of reports of bad China import stuff. I got a hold of one for my L134 and checked it out. It is a real good knock off of the Fel-Pro. A fairly cheap lamination however. I have read about failures. The China is not marked anywhere as to where it is made. If you use the Fel-Pro Engine set there is a note that the "Military Rear Main Seal is not included". I am not sure what that means. Maybe gmwillys can help out here. I am not aware of what the "Military Seal" is. If you can use the rubber seal in your block I would use it. It is preferred to the rope seal.
I did have excellent results with the Hard Parts for the motor provided by KW. The Bearings, Rings, Pistons and Valve train parts were top notch. The pistons were Silvolite's and the rings were Hastings.
Last edited by bmorgil; 11-16-2019 at 12:42 PM.
since i got the cardboard on the ground and waiting i feel that the yoke is probably cored, who makes the bushings/sleeves for these things?? not going to jump right in and pull them because w whole lot of dollars worth of lube will be lost
They are made by National oil seal and Timken Bearing as well as some others. The prices are all over the place. I used Nationals part # 99155. https://www.amazon.com/National-Oil-.../dp/B000C5JND8 These fit the Dana models 25's 27's 30's 44's and 50's. They will save you $20 or so over a new yoke.
coupe of dime size drops that i have no idea???
but have strong suspicion that the yoke from transfer case to rear end is leaking pretty good, gear oil flung around it and very visible, where before i suspected the gasket on big plate what i was seeing was gear wt oil splashed uo into bottom of body and draining down by gravity nmaking it look like it came from somewhere else
also found that the drain plug on the rear end was not all the way in (wasnt loose but had 1- 1 1/2 turn ro shut)
still looking
cleaned motor, trans, transfer case, and rear end, used two cans of gunk, waited 20 minuts then hit it with a hose, then drove around block to dry off (cold, I mean REALLY COLD) then pulled in to the garage and floor is clean as i could get using acetone and a rag, HOWEVER, JUST HAPPENED TO HAVE TWO 24"x24" PIECES OF CLEAN CARDBOARD Layed them out under the whole mess and will mark them "puddles" manana.... we sha ll see said the blindman
[QUOTE=pelago;9820]we shall see said the blindman QUOTE]
You are into the second stage of a restoration. You got Magoo to run, but it still needed a little tweaking and you are finding that some of the old pieces that you thought were OK, or you didn't know just what issues to look for, are causing some problems.
I'm not sure everything ever goes away, but after a while we get to the place we can live with it.
The '48 drips here and there, but I put cardboard under the drips and wipe off the splatter and live with it. I’ve learned that blood and oil leaks are similar; it just takes a few drops to get noticed, but it takes a lot more than you’d think to do any harm.
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