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Thread: 52 Pickup stop engine issues

  1. #11
    Junior Member
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    I have the service manual and used the F 134 diagram for hooking back up the wires as best as I could tell. Today I found my smoking wire issue was a bad spot in a wire coming through the firewall. I taped that up and put the old switch back in. Truck started up fine and seems to not be smoking as much. Then I tried shutting it off and as before it would not shut off. So I went to pull the battery cable to kill it and still it continued to run even after the cable was disconnected. It ran until the fuel that was in the carb ran out as I have an electric fuel pump on an aux switch that I shut off. I even disconnected the amp wire and the coil wire from the switch and it continued to run. I did not notice a hot coil today and had checked that out by disconnecting the wire from the hot side of coil to dist. I didn't warm up when I hooked the battery back up either. I have sent out requests to friend and acquaintances for suggestions but so far I have not had any responses. Old Willys are hard to kill I guess. You can't even get them to stop with a switch and no battery!

  2. #12
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    It is running off of the charging system. disconnect the wires from the generator/alternator and see if it shuts off.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Won't Stop Runnin'

    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    It is running off of the charging system. disconnect the wires from the generator/alternator and see if it shuts off.
    We have been using alternator systems for so long we tend to forget that a generator can sefl-excite itself from residual magnetism in the field. Once it gets started, unlike an alternator system, a generator system can run itself without a battery – a trick many of us have used to our advantage at one time or another. (Moving the only good battery from car to car on a really cold morning… .)

    You should have one and only one wire going to the + side of your coil.

    It should go back to the COIL terminal of the switch.

    For testing purposes, there should be only that one wire on the COIL terminal. There should be voltage on that terminal only when the AMP terminal is connected and the switch turned to the RUN position. Power on the COIL should go on and off with the switch being turned on and off. Disconnect everything from the ACC terminal as well. Let’s eliminate everything that is not necessary and add on as we verify that things are working properly.

    You may have an extra wire somewhere.

    On the generator you will see three terminals. One terminal is tied directly to the generator case. That is ground.

    Of the other two terminals, one is generally larger than the others. This is the armature terminal, the terminal that brings power out of the generator. It may have an A stamped by it.

    The smaller terminal is the field terminal, the terminal that the voltage regulator uses to control the output of the generator. It may have an F stamped by it, but generally not since the A is already identified.

    If you disconnect the larger of the two terminals, the armature terminal, the charging system is out of the picture and the battery-switch-coil are all that should be involved.

    The battery will crank the engine and run it, but the generator will not be charging the battery. Now that you have put the magic smoke back in the wires, things will be a bit less stressful!

  4. #14
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    Aug 2019
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    Thanks muchfor the additional suggestions. I plan on working on that. I just recalled that a family friend who is also restoring a 52 Willys said that he knew a retired mechanic that he was going to enlist for assistance. Maybe if I have no luck today I can get him to take a look. I also need to work on the brakes as they are fairly locked up. I was glad that when I had it running yesterday that when I put it in gear the driveline worked but would hardly move the truck because the brakes are seized up. I'm sure that getting them working will be an expereince but hopefully will not require mucho dinero.

  5. #15
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    OK I went up and disconnected the generator exccept for the ground wire to the case of the voltage reg. Willys started fine on the battery so went to shut it off after a couple of minutes and though it seemed to hesitate for a second it kept running. It did shut off when I pulled the pos. cable. I had disconnected the ACC post on the new switch prior to this and thought I might as well switch the remaining wires on the switch. all the way CW started it but still the same run-on result. I did light test the generator with both Field and Arm disconnected and got no light when running. I hooked up the lower bolt which I interpret as field and got sparks on the post while doing this and this then got a bright light from the Arm. post I called a retired mechanic and he will come look at the situation if need be. I guess I need be.
    Last edited by Wiotaman; 08-21-2019 at 03:46 PM.

  6. #16
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    I disconnected the wires to the pos side of coil and ran a new wire direct from a powered position on the old Willys key switch to the pos side of coil. In the power on position I tried to start it but it would not even make a shot. Perhaps too light of wire and will pick some heavier up tomorrow. I think perhaps a new condenser also as it was not throwng much of a spark with that light wire. I talked to my friends mechanic buddy and he is willing to come take a look. Will post more when progress is made.

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