This is a very interesting subject. Modern technology at its finest. Good work!
This is a very interesting subject. Modern technology at its finest. Good work!
Are you going to make the steering arm mount on the front cross-member, and the engine mount braces as separate parts?
Thanks TJ, I don't know about creating a monster, but I sure appreciate the positive feedback from everyone. It pushes me to move forward. A supplemental retirement income would never hurt
And clean fingernails in bonus Thanks LarrBeard
Thanks Mark
Thank you bmorgil
Thanks 5JeepsAz
Thanks gmwillys, I will add new modern technology to my arsenal. Just ordered a 3D resin printer. Will talk about it later.
I have not included the engine brackets yet because they are not located symmetrically. I will add them after the mirroring process is completed.
As for the steering mount, are you referring to this part circled in blue in your picture?
020.jpg
If so this is the first time I notice it. I will have to think about how I will integrate this. Due to its size, I may make it a separate part, but then I'll have to figure out how to install it afterwards.
I've tested my scaling parameters and it looks to be working fine down to a scale of 1:16. Smaller than that gives a load of errors. Going bigger does not seem to be a problem.
here's a picture of the printed parts of the frame scaled at 1:16
Even if I used a resolution of 0.15mm layers, the quality is good, but could be better.
019.jpg
On the good side, the tolerance I added worked just fine, maybe even a bit too loose. I will test ont the larger scale printout a tolerance of 0.075mm instead of 0.1mm
The printer I have is using FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling) technology. This is the most popular 3D printing technology. It's easy to operate. The drawback is the precision. It has too do with the nozzle diameter and thickness of layers. These are great printers, but when you try to print smaller parts, they are a bit limited.
On the other hand, SLA printers are best suited for really small detail printing. They are also limited by the size of parts that can be printed. In comparison, my FDM printer as a bed of roughly 8x8x8 inches. An affordable SLA printer as a printer bed of 5x3x6 inches. It also differs on how it prints. Instead of melting plastic, it uses a liquid resins that reacts to UV. The bed soaks in the resin and an LCD screen sends UV light where the models should be. The resin reacts to UV and hardens at that exact position. The resolution is way better, but the process is slower and dealing with the post processing of resin printed part is a pain in the lower back. Up until today I resisted the urge of getting one, but the lack of fine details of the 1:16 scale convinced me to pull the trigger.
Last edited by bluesblooded; 09-08-2020 at 08:43 AM. Reason: typo
I don't know yet what will be the level of details for mechanical things. I will see how the project evolves.
I wondered how to assemble the smaller scale. I thought that screw would be overkill and too big in comparison. So I decided to make holes the size of the filament and use it as guides to glue the parts together.
021.jpg
I'm happy with the decision, it works great.
Here is the 1:16 scale next to the 1:10
022.jpg
The biggest scale I can get away with is 1:6 if I orient the frame diagonally.
Here you can see the two portions that makes the frame.
023.jpg
The 1:6 scale frame will take over 28 hours to print. You'll get to see the result by the end of the week. I do not print when I sleep. The printer is a fire hazard. The hot end heats plastic at 225 celcius / 437 Farenheit. I prefer to always have an ear or an eye on it
While we wait, I'll start to design the leaf springs. I may also entertain you on all the parametric stuff I've alluded along this thread. It may get boring, but I think is a great feature of Fusion 360 over other software such as Rhino 3D.
Last edited by bluesblooded; 09-08-2020 at 03:25 PM. Reason: yet another typo
A little history lesson from the archive of near useless information. The steering bell crank on the MB and Ford GPW were not mounted to the frame cross member like the 2A on up. It was mounted directly to the axle tube. It was changed after the war due to brake steering issues. I. E. Slam on the brakes, and the Jeep would cut hard due the shift in the suspension. It was the only real safety flaw of the design, but being that the whole works was designed and built in a matter of weeks, not too shabby.
Last edited by gmwillys; 09-08-2020 at 07:49 PM.
Thanks gmwillys for the history lesson. Keep them coming, I love history.
So the steering bell crank would be mounted on this post on the right side?
024.jpg
You are correct. The stud is fairly close to being centered on the axle, with the pumpkin, or ring and pinion gear housing being on the passenger side. The picture is shown from the front looking rearward.
Last edited by gmwillys; 09-08-2020 at 09:14 PM.
I absolutely love this thing, even with little to no detail. On the other hand, this print thing you do allows for exquisite detail. Interested in whereabout you end up on detail/functions.