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Thread: well, the darn thing is out

  1. #2101
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    I hope you didn't leave that nut loose holding the yoke up there.

  2. #2102
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    No, i had taken photo before i put in a lock to hold the thing while i torqued it down, had to stick a crowbar in to keep from moving jeep with torque wrench, once i did that and checked all other bolts i could crawl out from under for the LAST TIME

  3. #2103
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Last time? You mean on this go round I take it! It is a very old Willys, it may need you from time to time!

  4. #2104
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    you must not have read the previous posts, at first i thought i had left washer off, and was worried and took it all apart and lo and behold I HAD PUT THE WASHER ON, , then i discovered that i had actually had the drum on reverse (was convinced due to diagram and logic that no engineer would put big scoop down there to catch all the mud blood and beer from roadway) but sure as hell i had it reversed, so off and on again, all upside down on concrete floor, actually bruised my tail bone.. But drove it for 30 miles to warm things up and can now report no puddle on the garage floor.......washed the undersides with de greaser, drove it, and parked it on clean and mopped garage floor.... no leaks

    late entry, laying on cold concrete for as many hours as i did, seems i managed to bruise my tailbone, sure is swollen, and damn if it don't just hurt

    IN AN EFFORT TO BE AUTHENTIC RESTORATION.
    ALL BLACK OUT LIGHTS NOW WORK AND THEY DID WHEN NEW
    AUTHENTICITY.jpg

    another add on question, i get some wheel shimmy at 45 to 50mph, was taught that steering wheel shimmy is almost always balance? true? there is no body shake and i aligned front end, and at 45-50mph if i relax hold on wheel and let it go where it wants to in about a mile it will have drifted to the right
    Last edited by pelago; 12-05-2019 at 11:22 AM.

  5. #2105
    Senior Member pelago's Avatar
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    anyone want to comment on these>>
    https://www.jegs.com/p/Pertronix/Per...oductId=746414

  6. #2106
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    Shimmy can be caused by slack in the steering or somewhere else in the suspension. You can feel it on the steering wheel. Wheel balance as well as bad shocks will cause wheel bounce. Both are annoying.

  7. #2107
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The wheel shimmy could be a few things. Tire balance will cause it. On a front drive/steer axle like the Willys, often it is the steering knuckle pivot bearings. If the preload gets too loose on the pivot bearings or they get worn, it will shimmy. When the bearings get real loose it will shake you right off the highway. A condition referred to as "Death Wobble".

    Put the front end up and check everything for looseness. Have someone move the steering wheel while you look for loose parts. If you have an alignment shop close by, often they will provide a check up no charge in the hopes of your business.

    I have the Pertronix ignition hidden inside my distributor. I absolutely love it. No points, set the timing once and never touch it again. It starts up nicely.

    This is their web site https://pertronix.com/

    Isn't your M38A1 24 volt? I am not sure they make a 24 volt version.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-06-2019 at 08:00 PM.

  8. #2108
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I'm a gluten for punishment. I like points, mainly because if there is an issue, you can generally fix them with a pocket knife and a match book cover as long as the capacitor isn't crapped out. I keep a supply of points just for emergencies in the tool box under the passenger seat. Better to have and not need, then need and not have. Pelago's A1 is 24 volt, and I'm not aware of any electronic conversion for the 24 volt system.

    Death wobble will make you draw up the seat cover. King pin slop is usually a pretty good bet, but as Bmorgil stated, you are better off having a helper wiggle the steering to check for anything loose.

  9. #2109
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    My mechanic recommended the pertronix ignitor. Being put on now. Will update when I get truck back. I did it because had an old tractor with points and it ran rough. Should have done it on that one, didn't matter because tractor, so I kept to original and didn't follow advice to change. Didn't want to mess around on a daily driver build, so giving it a try on the truck, since a guy I trust said this truck will run better with electronic ignition, which means it's a safety feature. Or so I tell myself.

  10. #2110
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    I'm a gluten for punishment. I like points, mainly because if there is an issue, you can generally fix them with a pocket knife and a match book cover as long as the capacitor isn't crapped out. I keep a supply of points just for emergencies in the tool box under the passenger seat. Better to have and not need, then need and not have. Pelago's A1 is 24 volt, and I'm not aware of any electronic conversion for the 24 volt system.

    Death wobble will make you draw up the seat cover. King pin slop is usually a pretty good bet, but as Bmorgil stated, you are better off having a helper wiggle the steering to check for anything loose.
    There is no arguing your point on the "Points" gmwillys! To add to that, in the event of a HPEM the points will keep running! With the Pertronix the whole thing replaces the points plate. You even reuse the screws. I have a points set, set up and ready to screw right in. I can literately change back and forth from electronic to points faster than just replacing the points!

    As a young Test Driver, we tested the vehicles pushing them intentionally into "Death Wobble". Knowing it is coming and the fact your on a closed track with lots of help, does not help. You can lose total control.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-07-2019 at 07:49 AM.

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