Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

[bmorgil]

Awesome resolution David! Yes I think a thick fender washer will do the trick just fine. A nice washer at the trans mount hole also. The flange needs to be straightened where your arrows are.

https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Thick-F...435178298&th=1

[gmwillys]

Looks like you have an obtainable goal for sure. The cross member just needs a little love. As Bmorgil said, straighten the flange where your arrows are, and the fender washer will get your mount hole back in good shape. Your cross member isn't too far gone, and doesn't need to be replaced in my opinion.

[davide]

I got the crossmember cleaned up some more, flanges straightened out and threw some primer on. I also called Mike at KW parts and asked about the t-case insulator as their Website states some Dauntless V-6, T-86A, Dana18 configurations used a square insulator. He was emailed the pics and replied that the crossmember looked modified, but using a fender washer may do the trick (doesn't that sound familiar). The issue of round or square insulator was not answered.

Then the lightbulb in my head got brighter. I recalled one of the spare parts I took back with me was a square mount. I thought it was a motor mount all of this time and just set it aside. Might this be what was originally on the crossmember!?
IMG_3765.jpg IMG_3764.jpg

I experimented to see how it may mount and found that a 'nub' on the flat side of the insulator lined up with a hole in the crossmember. I am not sure if this is coincidence or not, but it seems probable. Once I finish the final coats of paint on the crossmember and transmission, I'll see how it all lines up.
IMG_3766.jpg

[bmorgil]

A lot of mounts would fit in there. I have seen at least three different mounts. It seems the word was out to use any single stud mount you could find. If yours is an original V6, the one to use is the original design. I think they may have ran out of parts on the assembly line for a short period, so they swapped in a different vendor to keep the line moving. In any event the original design is what you need. This one was used for decades.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...transfer-case/

[gmwillys]

As LarrBeard reminds us, "Never say Willys never did anything" . Bmorgil is probably pretty close to being correct. If the part was dumped into a bin, it was used during production.

[davide]

The more I look at this and the more feedback I get, I believe a previous owner pieced together a quick fix. Check out how the fender washer fits into the wear of the crossmember. It's obvious to me now that the fender washers will work and I will order the correct mount.
IMG_3771.jpg IMG_3772.jpg

I also managed to get the remaining painting finished and am now ready for assembly.
IMG_3770.jpg IMG_3779.jpg

[gmwillys]

Looking good davide.

I agree, the previous fender washer left its impression.

[davide]

While I'm still pondering how I am supposed to install an assembled transmission/t-case/parking brake assembly, I took to more cleaning. I doubled up the gloves and started with parking brake backing assembly and drum.
The before:
IMG_3790.jpg IMG_3792.jpg

The after (with most of the gunk removed):
IMG_3791.jpg IMG_3793.jpg

It's obvious that the shoes are toast. Never adjusted correctly based on the wear. While the drum has some shallow grooves, I'm guessing that it is still fine to use based on it's function.

[bmorgil]

Because of the E-Brake design (brake on the transfer case output), it is very common for drivers to take off with the brake on. The design enables a driver to easily over power the brake with the engine, in first gear and especially low range first gear. The brake allows tremendous braking for the wheels if they try to drive everything backwards. Every set up has its plusses and minuses. Consequently, a lot of drivers accidentally or, unknowingly burn the brake up. Once its glazed up and burned it looses a great deal of effectiveness. I have seen all sorts of vehicles pulled in to a shop, with the E-Brake fully applied and it was apparent it had never been taken off. They look like yours, and they no longer work. The E-Brake set up was designed to hold a stopped vehicle or, to try to stop a runaway once or twice. It was never intended to be on while the vehicle was moving for any length of time.

gm and I went off on some stories somewhere on the forum here, about driving around and starting fires with E-Brakes on and on fire!

[gmwillys]

I'm just as guilty as the next guy to forget to take the parking brake off. On one of our annual Veteran benefit Jeep rides, we were trail riding, we got to the top of a mountain and stopped to let everyone catch up. The patch of ground we parked on was not flat, but the brake holds really well as long as you are stopped. When we took off again all seemed normal until I started to smell warm brakes. Sure enough, when we took off I had forgotten to release the brake. Nothing was harmed, just had to click in a little more adjustment and all was good. Now this last year, my darling bride drove the '91 Heep to the same ride, while I pulled the 2A on the trailer. It's about 40 miles to the park where we go. She left the parking brake on the entire drive there. When I hopped out at the registration booth, I smelled the toasted shoes and at first thought it was the clutch. I asked her to pull it off to the side and noticed she didn't take the brake off, I knew then what the problem was. Only bad thing was I had just dumped in all new brakes and drums the winter prior. It's a good thing Amazon has pretty decent prices on their AC Delco brake components. The hardware, shoes, and drums all were replaced for a second time.