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02-11-2025, 07:10 AM
#331
Super Moderator
David it happens to us all! You get into an overthinking it mode. You have seen a bunch on your project now and for some reason we always think the worst. So good that the situation wasn't a situation! For the first time working extensively on this Jeep, you are doing great. I had to go back and retry, redo a bunch. I usually have that situation on every project.
The removal and reinstall of the Trans and Transfer Case Assembly is usually best accomplished as a unit. I have found it is much easier to remove and reinstall them as an assembled unit. With the Jeep high enough in the air, and a good rolling jack that has a good hold on everything, it is much easier to put the whole assembly up and in cross member and all.
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02-11-2025, 12:33 PM
#332
Super Moderator
It absolutely happens to us all.
TJ and I would kid that when we ran into an issue, we would sit back and make a drink and have a smoke about it before going any further. Sitting back and staring at the project tends to get the mind remember the exact way things came apart. In short, when you are armpit deep into something, you lose sight of the big picture. (can't see the forest for the trees).
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02-11-2025, 08:42 PM
#333
Senior Member
I should have thrown out some more details as to why I couldn't get the crossmember to bolt up to the frame. While I could get the trans mount and crossmember align correctly, the t-case insulator was shifted an inch to the left when positioned correctly. The stud that goes through the bushings came nowhere close to going into the hole on the t-case shifter housing. I am wondering if my single shifter D18 housing has that hole located differently. I'm also curious if anyone on the forum has a D18 single shifter and still uses the "standard" t-case insulator.
IMG_3858.jpg
Here is what I discovered today. I did have the adapter bracket between the T-86 and the transmission mount on correctly. When I started looking at the crossmember and where the D18 mount hole was, I discovered that the modified hole for the mysterious double-studded mount aligned perfectly with the D18 hole. So it looks like I am going to go full circle on this one and put that mount back.
Last edited by davide; 02-12-2025 at 10:41 AM.
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02-12-2025, 09:11 AM
#334
Super Moderator
You definitely have something unique going on with that cross member and mount. The original mount should have bolted right up. I am not sure what is going on there. It sounds like you may have some older stuff mixed with some newer or modified stuff. In any event, if you can get it to line up and bolt in your on the right track!
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02-13-2025, 01:46 PM
#335
Senior Member
Getting my unique mount and crossmember all buttoned up yesterday was a breeze. I installed the new brake and clutch springs. The clutch cable was sticky and tight so I have it off and am getting some cable lube applied to it now. Next will be the e-brake, cable and spring. Everything is painted and cleaned so that should go smoothly (I hope I didn't jinx myself by saying smoothly).
After the GL-4 goes in the cases, I'll get the shifter housing back on as well as the t-case shifter. Then, maybe, I can fire up the willing engine responding with a roar. Sorry, I had to channel some Red Barchetta lyrics.
I'll get more pics posted soon.
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02-13-2025, 02:18 PM
#336
Super Moderator
There you go Davide, a little Rush playing in the background never hurt anything.
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02-13-2025, 04:37 PM
#337
Super Moderator
gm saved me from googling it! Ah yes, and "Drive like the wind"!
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02-17-2025, 06:35 PM
#338
Senior Member
I wanted to get a few things buttoned up before trying to start the motor again. I was jamming right along until I got the clutch cable on. It went on fine and the adjustment went well. When I went to push down on the pedal, the cable bound up. I can see very little movement on the fork arm. It will go about a 1/4 inch and then stop. The cable is not kinked and slides freely enough when disconnected at the ends. The access on the bell housing at the fork does not give me enough to see inside, even with an angled mirror. I know that there is a flywheel cover on the front of the bell housing. If I remove it, do you think that it will give me a better view of the throw out bearing and the fork?
When I put the transmission back in, I thought that I had the fork and throw out lined up well. The trans input shaft went through the bearing and easily seated through the flywheel splines. So I am scratching my head again and hoping/praying to not have to pull the trans and t-case assembly out. Let me know of pics to post that may help out on this.
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02-17-2025, 08:10 PM
#339
Senior Member
I took the bell housing front cover off and it was nothing more than a dust cover. I had a great view of the front of the flywheel, but nothing more. Here are some pics of the clutch cable, should they help...
IMG_3864.jpg IMG_3863.jpg
GM, I don't smoke, but some whiskey sounds good about now.
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02-18-2025, 07:39 AM
#340
Super Moderator
David, can you take the top inspection cover off the bell housing? With the floor pan removed, you should be able to get to the top cover on the bell housing. How much free travel do you have?
Last edited by bmorgil; 02-18-2025 at 01:11 PM.
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